2022 Hyundai Kona Electric
Electric SUV · FWD
Based on battery health, build quality, owner data, EPA range, and market pricing
Above average for 2022 EV SUVs (class avg 66 · top 45%)
Personalize this scoreIs a low score bad?
Last scanned 24 days ago
The 2022 Hyundai Kona Electric puts down 201 hp, 258 miles of EPA range and a 62 kWh battery, and a worth-pursuing score, but only after a hard inspection and a fair price.
Score read
A 67/100 makes this a records-first inspection. The useful split is software and driver-assist score at 84/100 versus range and efficiency score at 53/100. On Reddit, owners keep flagging the same two issues: software tech and build quality. If the seller cannot show recall completion, price that risk or move on.
Price context
Used examples are running around $19,854. Treat that as a budgeting floor, not a final price; pull a current KBB Fair Purchase or Edmunds True Market Value for this exact trim before negotiating.
Who this is for
✓ Good for
- ⏱ Daily commuter ≤50 mi/day, predictable charging
✗ Avoid if you are a
- ↦ Road tripper Long trips, needs DC fast network
- $ Bargain hunter Best TCO, reliability + low depreciation
Gotchas
- Serviceable Recall paperwork has to match the exact VIN.
Mitigation Use NHTSA and the automaker lookup, then require repair records instead of a verbal promise.
- Built in Range is the easy place to overbuy this trim (53/100).
Mitigation Check your commute, winter margin, and fast-charge plan before you assume the EPA number fits your use.
Pre-purchase inspection
- 1 Run the exact VIN through NHTSA and the automaker recall lookup before discussing price.
- 2 Compare the dashboard range estimate with the EPA 258-mile rating after a full charge.
- 3 Confirm how much of the 10-year/100,000-mile battery warranty remains and whether it transfers.
- 4 If road trips matter, run a short DC fast-charge session and watch whether speed tapers normally.
- 5 Map your normal highway route and winter margin against the EPA range before you treat it as a road-trip car.
VIN status first This model has 2 NHTSA recall records. The exact VIN lookup decides whether the car in front of you is clear.
Complaint context This scan found 116 NHTSA complaint records (41.4 per 10K VINs, high — material safety/build concern). Read the themes below before treating the raw count as the verdict.
Price anchor Current market range is $16,600-$19,854. Use that range to compare listings for the same trim, mileage, and condition.
Pricing & Market Value
Score Breakdown
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Vehicle Specifications
EVs at your price point that match or beat this trim
Price-gated peer set: vehicles within $14.6K–$21.9K market value (±20% of $18.2K). 3 outscore · 3 score within ±2. Mixed across makes — no "spend more, score better" comps.
Bolt EUV
- ✓ Better bang-for-buck
- ✓ Happier owners overall
- ✓ Notably better build quality
EV6
- ✓ Better bang-for-buck
- ✓ +52 mi more range
- ✓ 800V DC charging
Ioniq 5
- ✓ Better bang-for-buck
- ✓ +45 mi more range
- ✓ Better build quality
Kona
- ✓ Different trade-offs at the same price
Q4 e-tron
- ✓ Better bang-for-buck
- ✓ Notably better build quality
Niro
- ✓ Better bang-for-buck
- ✓ Better build quality
The federal $4,000 used-EV credit ended Sept 30, 2025.
But 10 states still run their own used-EV rebate programs — some up to $5,000. Pick your state to see what's available for this trim.
Source & disclaimer
Dealers make ~$6,894 on the average car loan.
After the price is set, the finance manager runs four plays to rebuild margin. Every buyer without a pre-approval is a target. Here's exactly what they run — and what stops each one.
78% of dealer loans carry a hidden +1.13% markup above what the lender actually charges. You never see it — it's buried in the contract. · CFPB
Dealer must match or beat your lender — they can't add margin invisibly. The markup play is dead on arrival.
Once you answer, they stretch the term to hit your number. Median result: $4K less off the price, 12 more months on the loan. · Industry avg
Financing is done. Only the sale price is on the table — and the dealer knows it.
Back-office F&I profit averages $1,975/vehicle, up 8.5% YoY. These products exist — but dealer markup is 4–10x what you'd pay elsewhere. · Dealership Guy
Dealer GAP runs $500–1K. Your insurer sells the same coverage for $100–250 over 5 years. Now you know.
"Your loan fell through — come re-sign." This pulls your APR up +5% on average. It's legal. It works because you've already driven the car home. · Ctr for Responsible Lending
A lender commitment letter means the deal is final. "Pending dealer approval" doesn't apply. You can't be yo-yo'd.
That's 25 months of your car payment — handed to the dealer's finance department for nothing.
Takes 2 minutes. No obligation to use it — but you'll walk in with all the leverage.
Pre-approval is a soft credit inquiry — no score impact. FICO treats all auto-loan hard pulls within 14 days as one, so you can still shop rates at the dealer.
NHTSA Recalls (2)
Hyundai Motor America (Hyundai) is recalling certain 2019-2022 Veloster N, 2019-2023 Genesis G70, 2022-2023 Elantra N, and Kona N vehicles. The fuel pump may fail, which can result in a loss of drive power.
A loss of drive power can increase the risk of a crash.
Check VIN status at NHTSA.govHyundai Motor Company (Hyundai) is recalling certain 2021-2022 Santa Fe, Sonata, Veloster N, 2022 Santa Cruz, Elantra N, and Kona N vehicles. The vehicle's "fail-safe" limited-mobility drive mode may be impaired, when prompted by a transmission oil pump malfunction, which can result in a complete loss of drive power.
Loss of drive power increases the risk of a crash.
Check VIN status at NHTSA.govNHTSA Complaints (116 total · 41.4 per 10K US vehicles · high — material safety/build concern)
I purchased a 2022 Hyundai Kona brand new, and since day one it has had serious performance issues — specifically, harsh jolting during acceleration and occasional stalling. These symptoms are dangerous, especially when driving in traffic, merging, or crossing intersections. I discovered that a recall existed prior to my purchase, but it was not performed until after nearly two service visits — even though I had already reported these symptoms. I was never informed of the recall by the dealership before those visits. After the recall was eventually performed, the issues continued, and the dealership began doing software resets during service visits. However, these resets have not resolved the problem, and the symptoms return shortly after. The dealership claims there’s nothing wrong and refuses to escalate the issue. I have contacted Hyundai Consumer Affairs and am working with a national case manager, but there is still no resolution. I do not feel safe driving this vehicle. I believe this may be related to a defect in the transmission control system, electronic throttle, or dual-clutch transmission. I’m requesting that NHTSA investigate this as a safety-related defect, as it has persisted since purchase and affects both the safety and drivability of the vehicle.
I purchased a 2022 Hyundai Kona brand new, and since day one it has had serious performance issues — specifically, harsh jolting during acceleration and occasional stalling. These symptoms are dangerous, especially when driving in traffic, merging, or crossing intersections. I discovered that a recall existed prior to my purchase, but it was not performed until after nearly two service visits — even though I had already reported these symptoms. I was never informed of the recall by the dealership before those visits. After the recall was eventually performed, the issues continued, and the dealership began doing software resets during service visits. However, these resets have not resolved the problem, and the symptoms return shortly after. The dealership claims there’s nothing wrong and refuses to escalate the issue. I have contacted Hyundai Consumer Affairs and am working with a national case manager, but there is still no resolution. I do not feel safe driving this vehicle. I believe this may be related to a defect in the transmission control system, electronic throttle, or dual-clutch transmission. I’m requesting that NHTSA investigate this as a safety-related defect, as it has persisted since purchase and affects both the safety and drivability of the vehicle.
Transmission failed, to start with it wouldn’t go into reverse, then while trying to drive in forward it stalled and shut everything down with a code message going across the screen a possible condition with your transmission control system has been detected.a full check system is recommended to be done soon.please contact your local dealership to make appointment. Had to have car towed to dealership transmission would not operate at all.
Transmission failed, to start with it wouldn’t go into reverse, then while trying to drive in forward it stalled and shut everything down with a code message going across the screen a possible condition with your transmission control system has been detected.a full check system is recommended to be done soon.please contact your local dealership to make appointment. Had to have car towed to dealership transmission would not operate at all.
Randomly the check engine light turns on and the car begins to violently shake. This is the second day this already happened and only happened while on the highway. The car is only 3 weeks old with just over 1000 miles on it. After pulling over on the side of the road and turning the car off and on, the problem disappeared and the check engine light turns off. The vehicle does not acknowledge that there was an issue. After doing some research, it seems to be consistent with a common issue with Hyundai vehicles having defective ignition coils. Common issue in multiple Konas, Elantras and other Hyundai vehicle The danger of the control of the car on the highway when this issue occurs at random is sufficient enough to make sure that all these vehicles are recalled to get the problem fixed.
Randomly the check engine light turns on and the car begins to violently shake. This is the second day this already happened and only happened while on the highway. The car is only 3 weeks old with just over 1000 miles on it. After pulling over on the side of the road and turning the car off and on, the problem disappeared and the check engine light turns off. The vehicle does not acknowledge that there was an issue. After doing some research, it seems to be consistent with a common issue with Hyundai vehicles having defective ignition coils. Common issue in multiple Konas, Elantras and other Hyundai vehicle The danger of the control of the car on the highway when this issue occurs at random is sufficient enough to make sure that all these vehicles are recalled to get the problem fixed.
When I purchased the car with in 2 weeks epb, auto hold and auto stop all 3 lights on dashboard came on orange. Took to dealership and they fixed the problem. 4 months later now the lights are back on. The vehicle does not feel safe at pulls to the right, I have problems with my ac as well as my transmission is slipping. The car loses power when I accelerate. I believe was sold a lemon car I purchased from carmax.
When I purchased the car with in 2 weeks epb, auto hold and auto stop all 3 lights on dashboard came on orange. Took to dealership and they fixed the problem. 4 months later now the lights are back on. The vehicle does not feel safe at pulls to the right, I have problems with my ac as well as my transmission is slipping. The car loses power when I accelerate. I believe was sold a lemon car I purchased from carmax.
When I first brought the car for its first service appointment (6 months after purchase), I informed the service dept at the dealership that the car seemed to accelerate itself when I was driving. They said they hit a reset button and that I shouldn't have any more problems. What I found was that the car then drove sluggishly but it did not accelerate anymore. Recently however (2.5 years into the purchase), the car started "sliding" when I hit the break pad. I took the car in again for service a few months ahead of time and they said that my car mat was wedged under the break pad and that was what was causing the car to slide when I hit the break. The car slid but also accelerated by about 5 miles, however I was able to quickly break and stop it without incident. This last service was on Friday, August 1st, and on Sunday August 3, the car slid and accelerated again - without the floor mat being wedged under the break. On Monday morning (August 4th) I called Hyundai so many times that I lost count. I was never able to speak with a service employee but I was given an appointment for a week and half later. According to ChatGPT, it is a common issue with the 2022 Kona and it should be recalled.
When I first brought the car for its first service appointment (6 months after purchase), I informed the service dept at the dealership that the car seemed to accelerate itself when I was driving. They said they hit a reset button and that I shouldn't have any more problems. What I found was that the car then drove sluggishly but it did not accelerate anymore. Recently however (2.5 years into the purchase), the car started "sliding" when I hit the break pad. I took the car in again for service a few months ahead of time and they said that my car mat was wedged under the break pad and that was what was causing the car to slide when I hit the break. The car slid but also accelerated by about 5 miles, however I was able to quickly break and stop it without incident. This last service was on Friday, August 1st, and on Sunday August 3, the car slid and accelerated again - without the floor mat being wedged under the break. On Monday morning (August 4th) I called Hyundai so many times that I lost count. I was never able to speak with a service employee but I was given an appointment for a week and half later. According to ChatGPT, it is a common issue with the 2022 Kona and it should be recalled.
Horn stopped working for third time. Replaced by dealership twice, awaiting parts for third repair.
Horn stopped working for third time. Replaced by dealership twice, awaiting parts for third repair.
On four separate occasions now, I have been driving on the highway at roughly 60 mph, no cars in front of or beside me, and nothing else obstructing the roadway, when completely out of nowhere the emergency braking activates for 3-5 seconds. Thankfully there was only a car behind me on one occasion, and they were far enough behind to not collide after my sudden braking.
On four separate occasions now, I have been driving on the highway at roughly 60 mph, no cars in front of or beside me, and nothing else obstructing the roadway, when completely out of nowhere the emergency braking activates for 3-5 seconds. Thankfully there was only a car behind me on one occasion, and they were far enough behind to not collide after my sudden braking.
The brakes began feeling less effective the day before because the car crept forward at a light but the driver thought they may have just eased off the brake pedal. The next day during a 45-minute drive to work the brakes felt more ineffective and a dash display warned "Low brake fluid". The Parking brake light was NOT on while driving. Drove the car from work to the local Hyundai dealer in Alexandria, VA a mile away. The dealer refused to look at car at all and said to come back in 18 days. The dealer said no loaner cars were available. Drove the car back to work. On the way home the Parking brake light came on. Got home and saw the Owners Manual says to park the car and not drive it when the Parking Brake light comes on while the parking brake is released. Checked the brake reservoir and it was completely empty. The brake pedal went to floor and the only way to stop the car was to use the Parking Brake. The reservoir was refilled but all fluid was gone in a few hours of driving. The car was towed ten days later to the same dealer after a manager at the dealership got involved. The tow truck driver had to use the parking brake to drive the car out of the parking garage. The dealer advised the problem was a faulty caliper. The Owners Manual claims the car has a "dual diagonal" braking system as required by law but somehow a single leaking caliper resulted in a COMPLETE loss of pedal braking and ALL brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir in a short period of time. Had this happened on a highway instead of city streets this could have been a fatal. THE BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER RESERVOIR DOES NOT SEEM TO BE A "SPLIT" RESERVOIR. It has a separator but the "wall" does NOT go all the way to the top of the reservoir. I believe that when the brakes were used the fluid splashed from the "good" half to the leaking half because the reservoir is not 100% physically separate for the two sets of brakes.
The brakes began feeling less effective the day before because the car crept forward at a light but the driver thought they may have just eased off the brake pedal. The next day during a 45-minute drive to work the brakes felt more ineffective and a dash display warned "Low brake fluid". The Parking brake light was NOT on while driving. Drove the car from work to the local Hyundai dealer in Alexandria, VA a mile away. The dealer refused to look at car at all and said to come back in 18 days. The dealer said no loaner cars were available. Drove the car back to work. On the way home the Parking brake light came on. Got home and saw the Owners Manual says to park the car and not drive it when the Parking Brake light comes on while the parking brake is released. Checked the brake reservoir and it was completely empty. The brake pedal went to floor and the only way to stop the car was to use the Parking Brake. The reservoir was refilled but all fluid was gone in a few hours of driving. The car was towed ten days later to the same dealer after a manager at the dealership got involved. The tow truck driver had to use the parking brake to drive the car out of the parking garage. The dealer advised the problem was a faulty caliper. The Owners Manual claims the car has a "dual diagonal" braking system as required by law but somehow a single leaking caliper resulted in a COMPLETE loss of pedal braking and ALL brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir in a short period of time. Had this happened on a highway instead of city streets this could have been a fatal. THE BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER RESERVOIR DOES NOT SEEM TO BE A "SPLIT" RESERVOIR. It has a separator but the "wall" does NOT go all the way to the top of the reservoir. I believe that when the brakes were used the fluid splashed from the "good" half to the leaking half because the reservoir is not 100% physically separate for the two sets of brakes.
While driving slowly less than 5 MPH into parking stall the vehicle accelerated excessively while trying to brake the vehicle it continued to accelerate and jumped the curb while I was still pumping the brakes to try to get it to stop and the car finally stopped after hitting the front of the establishment building. No collision warning went off at this time as well. I checked the mats to see if they were against the accelerator pedal and they were not.
While driving slowly less than 5 MPH into parking stall the vehicle accelerated excessively while trying to brake the vehicle it continued to accelerate and jumped the curb while I was still pumping the brakes to try to get it to stop and the car finally stopped after hitting the front of the establishment building. No collision warning went off at this time as well. I checked the mats to see if they were against the accelerator pedal and they were not.
I was rear ended waiting for the car in front of me to turn. Driver was going between 33-40 on a residential. My air bags did not deploy.
I was rear ended waiting for the car in front of me to turn. Driver was going between 33-40 on a residential. My air bags did not deploy.
The adaptive cruise control does not engage in a timely fashion when activated. The speed reduces 8-12 mph before it kicks in. Speed always decreases 5 to. 21 mph on every hill. This inconsistency causes traffic to bunch around me. The dealership says nothing can be done to fix the problem. This problem is so frustrating and dangerous that I no longer use the feature.
The adaptive cruise control does not engage in a timely fashion when activated. The speed reduces 8-12 mph before it kicks in. Speed always decreases 5 to. 21 mph on every hill. This inconsistency causes traffic to bunch around me. The dealership says nothing can be done to fix the problem. This problem is so frustrating and dangerous that I no longer use the feature.
Two times on a highway, the car engaged the automatic emergency brakes when the driver was driving straight forward. We were not turning, breaking, or accelerating and there were no cars close to our car
Two times on a highway, the car engaged the automatic emergency brakes when the driver was driving straight forward. We were not turning, breaking, or accelerating and there were no cars close to our car
Cruise control on the 2022 Kona is not viable. In the standard cruising gears the cruise control is unresponsive for a long duration resulting in reductions of speed of up to 11 MPH at highway speeds, in traffic. The response of the cruise control to following a car can take up to 1 minute to actually try and recover speed.
Cruise control on the 2022 Kona is not viable. In the standard cruising gears the cruise control is unresponsive for a long duration resulting in reductions of speed of up to 11 MPH at highway speeds, in traffic. The response of the cruise control to following a car can take up to 1 minute to actually try and recover speed.
This is my 2nd report on the same issue. There is another report from me on the first and I will be discussing this with my Hyundai dealer today. On a 250 mile road trip, on the expressway, two separate times, the car suddenly braked hard and the emergency warning flashed on the speedometer. Each time it was about 3-5 seconds. On the second incident, my passenger thinks she noticed it happening in conjunction with a car appearing on my side. She said the side mirror warning lit up at the same time the car started braking. It could just be a coincidence though. Thankfully, neither time did the brakes fully stop the car, but DAMN, it is very scary when it happens on the expressway and I am very nervous to drive with the feature on.
This is my 2nd report on the same issue. There is another report from me on the first and I will be discussing this with my Hyundai dealer today. On a 250 mile road trip, on the expressway, two separate times, the car suddenly braked hard and the emergency warning flashed on the speedometer. Each time it was about 3-5 seconds. On the second incident, my passenger thinks she noticed it happening in conjunction with a car appearing on my side. She said the side mirror warning lit up at the same time the car started braking. It could just be a coincidence though. Thankfully, neither time did the brakes fully stop the car, but DAMN, it is very scary when it happens on the expressway and I am very nervous to drive with the feature on.
It is called a "Smart Cruise" and it does not hold the speed. When driving on the interstate and the speed does not hold that would cause a risk of collision by other vehicles that are driving the appropriate speed. I took the car to my Hyundai dealer and a tech drove it. He said he got the same result of not holding the speed it was set at. I was told this is a problem with the Smart Cruise and that there was nothing that could be done at this time. There was nothing to say the cruise control was not working correctly
It is called a "Smart Cruise" and it does not hold the speed. When driving on the interstate and the speed does not hold that would cause a risk of collision by other vehicles that are driving the appropriate speed. I took the car to my Hyundai dealer and a tech drove it. He said he got the same result of not holding the speed it was set at. I was told this is a problem with the Smart Cruise and that there was nothing that could be done at this time. There was nothing to say the cruise control was not working correctly
There are multiple issues with the Adaptive Cruise Control: -When setting the cruise control speed, it can drop 10-15 mph until it kicks in. -When a car pulls in front of you with the Adaptive Cruise Control on, it takes to long to recognize it has to slow down and has to abruptly decrease speed when it finally does. -If the Adaptive Cruise Control does slow down because of a driver in front of you and that driver changes lanes, the Adaptive Cruise Control can again take 10-mph drop until it kicks in. https://www.konaissues.com/ https://www.hyundai-forums.com/threads/2022-kona-cruise-control-unusable.680949/ https://www.reddit.com/r/Hyundai/comments/q80vhz/cruise_control_in_2022_kona_limited_is_whack/ https://www.carproblemzoo.com/hyundai/kona/2022/adaptive-cruise-control-problems.php
There are multiple issues with the Adaptive Cruise Control: -When setting the cruise control speed, it can drop 10-15 mph until it kicks in. -When a car pulls in front of you with the Adaptive Cruise Control on, it takes to long to recognize it has to slow down and has to abruptly decrease speed when it finally does. -If the Adaptive Cruise Control does slow down because of a driver in front of you and that driver changes lanes, the Adaptive Cruise Control can again take 10-mph drop until it kicks in. https://www.konaissues.com/ https://www.hyundai-forums.com/threads/2022-kona-cruise-control-unusable.680949/ https://www.reddit.com/r/Hyundai/comments/q80vhz/cruise_control_in_2022_kona_limited_is_whack/ https://www.carproblemzoo.com/hyundai/kona/2022/adaptive-cruise-control-problems.php
The car turned into a bricked mode 3 times after I fully charged the car to 100%. The car cannot open or start the engine. The battery was dead or drained somehow. I have to jump start the battery and reset the battery terminals in order for it to work again. Now the braking warning light has stayed on after I reset the battery terminals. I think this 2022 Hyundai Kona EV has some electrical issues that Hyundai need to fix or be aware of.
The car turned into a bricked mode 3 times after I fully charged the car to 100%. The car cannot open or start the engine. The battery was dead or drained somehow. I have to jump start the battery and reset the battery terminals in order for it to work again. Now the braking warning light has stayed on after I reset the battery terminals. I think this 2022 Hyundai Kona EV has some electrical issues that Hyundai need to fix or be aware of.
During collision, airbags did not deploy. In attempt to avoid collision, automatic breaks failed and did not stop the vehicle, cruise control continued to attempt to drive the vehicle despite collision warning and did not stop- coupled with my manual breaking, the car did not stop. Car is currently at a tow lot waiting for insurance. My safety was put at risk due to airbags not deploying during serious collision, the breaks malfunctioned. At this time, the car is in the beginning stages of insurance. My car did not display any prior failure features.
During collision, airbags did not deploy. In attempt to avoid collision, automatic breaks failed and did not stop the vehicle, cruise control continued to attempt to drive the vehicle despite collision warning and did not stop- coupled with my manual breaking, the car did not stop. Car is currently at a tow lot waiting for insurance. My safety was put at risk due to airbags not deploying during serious collision, the breaks malfunctioned. At this time, the car is in the beginning stages of insurance. My car did not display any prior failure features.
Adaptive Cruise Control is practical non-functional. There is a major delay when setting the cruise control speed before it actually kicks in. Speed can slow down upwards 10-15 mph below the intended set speed and take roughly 30 seconds. Once it engages its spotty with it's functionality. Depending on traffic scenarios it seems to reset the ability to re-engage cruise control and will again dropping down speed taking 15-30 seconds for before re-engaging.
Adaptive Cruise Control is practical non-functional. There is a major delay when setting the cruise control speed before it actually kicks in. Speed can slow down upwards 10-15 mph below the intended set speed and take roughly 30 seconds. Once it engages its spotty with it's functionality. Depending on traffic scenarios it seems to reset the ability to re-engage cruise control and will again dropping down speed taking 15-30 seconds for before re-engaging.
I was driving on the freeway the car in front of me was at least 4 car lengths away. My car flashed emergency breaks and locked it’s breaks coming to a stop on the fast lane of the freeway. Nearly avoided an accident. This has happened twice- both with no reason and no issue in front of me to cause the car to think it needed to suddenly use emergency brakes.
I was driving on the freeway the car in front of me was at least 4 car lengths away. My car flashed emergency breaks and locked it’s breaks coming to a stop on the fast lane of the freeway. Nearly avoided an accident. This has happened twice- both with no reason and no issue in front of me to cause the car to think it needed to suddenly use emergency brakes.
The cruise control does not engage. When setting the adaptive cruise control I have had the car slow down 15-20 mph before turning the cruise control off because traffic is backing up behind me and I become a hazard on the road. I have taken it to 2 different dealerships, the one I purchased the car from and one that is closer to my home as I moved and now live in a different state from where I purchased the car. Both dealerships claimed they were not able to replicate the issue. However, every time I drive the car and try to use cruise control I have the same issue of the cruise control not engaging. The car dashboard's speed indicator is supposed to turn green and make a "ding" sound when you engage the cruise control at the posted speed limit. My car does not do this. The speed limit on the freeway here is 80mph and it will turn green and "ding" at 81mph but still not actually engage and maintain the speed. I have had numerous incidents where cars behind me honk and have to go around because I was slowing down so much. I spoke with another 2022 Kona owner and they stated that they have had the same problem and they were told the same thing by a different dealership that they bought their vehicle from.
The cruise control does not engage. When setting the adaptive cruise control I have had the car slow down 15-20 mph before turning the cruise control off because traffic is backing up behind me and I become a hazard on the road. I have taken it to 2 different dealerships, the one I purchased the car from and one that is closer to my home as I moved and now live in a different state from where I purchased the car. Both dealerships claimed they were not able to replicate the issue. However, every time I drive the car and try to use cruise control I have the same issue of the cruise control not engaging. The car dashboard's speed indicator is supposed to turn green and make a "ding" sound when you engage the cruise control at the posted speed limit. My car does not do this. The speed limit on the freeway here is 80mph and it will turn green and "ding" at 81mph but still not actually engage and maintain the speed. I have had numerous incidents where cars behind me honk and have to go around because I was slowing down so much. I spoke with another 2022 Kona owner and they stated that they have had the same problem and they were told the same thing by a different dealership that they bought their vehicle from.
I purchased in July 2021 todays date is Nov 22nd it has been 5 months and for the second time I get to my parked car and the power locks don’t work with the key fob and the engine simply will not start. The first time I had the tow truck guy jump start the engine and it worked up until today, I took it in for a diagnostic and they said the battery was healthy everything checked out. Today again Nov 22 I get to my car again won’t unlock and engine simply will not turn on with key entry model SE. This time I had them tow to the dealership for more evaluation. This is a road hazard what happens if the engine decides to stop working while driving the vehicle? Both times I double checked and I did not leave any lights on everything was shut off only thing blinking was the security alarm system. I believe it is a manufacturer defect in the engine since the battery tests out fine.
I purchased in July 2021 todays date is Nov 22nd it has been 5 months and for the second time I get to my parked car and the power locks don’t work with the key fob and the engine simply will not start. The first time I had the tow truck guy jump start the engine and it worked up until today, I took it in for a diagnostic and they said the battery was healthy everything checked out. Today again Nov 22 I get to my car again won’t unlock and engine simply will not turn on with key entry model SE. This time I had them tow to the dealership for more evaluation. This is a road hazard what happens if the engine decides to stop working while driving the vehicle? Both times I double checked and I did not leave any lights on everything was shut off only thing blinking was the security alarm system. I believe it is a manufacturer defect in the engine since the battery tests out fine.
In January 2026, my engine light illuminated and the vehicle lost power. The dealership found a sudden loss of compression across all four cylinders, requiring a total engine replacement. This occurred without warning, only two months after a routine oil change at the same facility where no issues were reported. Despite opening a case with Hyundai corporate, there has been no progress. My research indicates that while NHTSA Recall 21V301 (Safety Recall 203) specifies 2019–2021 models, the 2022 model shares the same engine design and identical reports of stalling and compression loss. My vehicle has been at the dealership for three months with no resolution. The dealership says they are running tests requested by tech line without providing documentation of the tests or the results. Although, the initial test performed indicated that it was a compression ring issue.
In January 2026, my engine light illuminated and the vehicle lost power. The dealership found a sudden loss of compression across all four cylinders, requiring a total engine replacement. This occurred without warning, only two months after a routine oil change at the same facility where no issues were reported. Despite opening a case with Hyundai corporate, there has been no progress. My research indicates that while NHTSA Recall 21V301 (Safety Recall 203) specifies 2019–2021 models, the 2022 model shares the same engine design and identical reports of stalling and compression loss. My vehicle has been at the dealership for three months with no resolution. The dealership says they are running tests requested by tech line without providing documentation of the tests or the results. Although, the initial test performed indicated that it was a compression ring issue.
I found a lot of shaved metals when I did the oil change for the Gear Reduction. It made a lot of noises when driving or the wheel of fortune sounds whether the car is in Regenerative Braking. The sounds developed as time goes on but Hyundai failed to recall this issue. I found this has been an ongoing issue since 2019 when Hyundai make this Kona EV, but their engineers didn’t fix this type of issue and continue to manufacture the Kona EV with the same Gear Reduction Assembly and it caused a lot of noises with these shaving metals found in the oil changes. This is abnormal for a GRU to have so many metals found in the oil. Thus, it made a lot of noises. Now my car can’t even drive because of this. The GRU has been broken because of this issue that Hyundai didn’t even fix since 2019.
I found a lot of shaved metals when I did the oil change for the Gear Reduction. It made a lot of noises when driving or the wheel of fortune sounds whether the car is in Regenerative Braking. The sounds developed as time goes on but Hyundai failed to recall this issue. I found this has been an ongoing issue since 2019 when Hyundai make this Kona EV, but their engineers didn’t fix this type of issue and continue to manufacture the Kona EV with the same Gear Reduction Assembly and it caused a lot of noises with these shaving metals found in the oil changes. This is abnormal for a GRU to have so many metals found in the oil. Thus, it made a lot of noises. Now my car can’t even drive because of this. The GRU has been broken because of this issue that Hyundai didn’t even fix since 2019.
The vehicle displayed a warning lamp indicating a Cooling System Performance failure. The specific defect relates to the Integrated Thermal-Management Module (ITM) and the thermostat opening prematurely, corresponding to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P218100. This issue requires a repair outlined in Technical Service Bulletin 25-EM-007H, involving a spring installation and ECU update. This failure creates a serious safety concern because improper thermal management can cause the engine to overheat or force the vehicle into a reduced-power 'limp mode' without warning. A sudden loss of acceleration or engine stall while driving in traffic significantly increases the risk of a crash.
The vehicle displayed a warning lamp indicating a Cooling System Performance failure. The specific defect relates to the Integrated Thermal-Management Module (ITM) and the thermostat opening prematurely, corresponding to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P218100. This issue requires a repair outlined in Technical Service Bulletin 25-EM-007H, involving a spring installation and ECU update. This failure creates a serious safety concern because improper thermal management can cause the engine to overheat or force the vehicle into a reduced-power 'limp mode' without warning. A sudden loss of acceleration or engine stall while driving in traffic significantly increases the risk of a crash.
August 2024: Horn malfunction/failure. Pressed the car's horn, and it FAILED to produce the loud sound that it is SUPPOSED TO make to warn others of possible danger. It continued to not work and needed to be replaced for the third time. Part 96611-J9500 (Horn Assembly) was replaced for the THIRD time on this vehicle.
August 2024: Horn malfunction/failure. Pressed the car's horn, and it FAILED to produce the loud sound that it is SUPPOSED TO make to warn others of possible danger. It continued to not work and needed to be replaced for the third time. Part 96611-J9500 (Horn Assembly) was replaced for the THIRD time on this vehicle.
December 2025: Yet ANOTHER horn failure. Pressed the vehicle's horn to alert another driver that they were drifting into my lane on the highway, and it FAILED to produce the loud sound that it is SUPPOSED TO make. It needed to be replaced again for the FOURTH time. Part 96611-J9500 was replaced—AGAIN. This is a continued safety issue that Hyundai has neglected to address and fix. Spontaneous horn failure is a HAZARD. The horn is there to warn others of possible danger.
December 2025: Yet ANOTHER horn failure. Pressed the vehicle's horn to alert another driver that they were drifting into my lane on the highway, and it FAILED to produce the loud sound that it is SUPPOSED TO make. It needed to be replaced again for the FOURTH time. Part 96611-J9500 was replaced—AGAIN. This is a continued safety issue that Hyundai has neglected to address and fix. Spontaneous horn failure is a HAZARD. The horn is there to warn others of possible danger.
JANUARY 2024: HORN FAILURE. Pressed the car's horn, and it FAILED to produce the loud sound that it is SUPPOSED TO make to warn others of possible DANGER. It continued to not work and needed to be replaced. Part 96611-J9500 was replaced AGAIN.
JANUARY 2024: HORN FAILURE. Pressed the car's horn, and it FAILED to produce the loud sound that it is SUPPOSED TO make to warn others of possible DANGER. It continued to not work and needed to be replaced. Part 96611-J9500 was replaced AGAIN.
Hyundai has multiple complaints regarding Horn malfunction in the Hyundai Kona. I went to use my horn today to prevent an accident and found my horn does not work. I have checked my fuses and relays and neither are blown leading to the horn to be unable for use
Hyundai has multiple complaints regarding Horn malfunction in the Hyundai Kona. I went to use my horn today to prevent an accident and found my horn does not work. I have checked my fuses and relays and neither are blown leading to the horn to be unable for use
Horn was going in and out of working for the first few months after purchase. Now the horn does not work at all. It is not the fuse. As seeing through other complaints this is a very common problem and should be on Hyundai to fix.
Horn was going in and out of working for the first few months after purchase. Now the horn does not work at all. It is not the fuse. As seeing through other complaints this is a very common problem and should be on Hyundai to fix.
I had the radiator replaced by the Ourisman Hyundai Laurel dealership on 10/1/25. Radiator replacement was under warranty. On 10/4/25car overheated while driving. I pulled the car over and called for a tow truck. Car was leaking lots of coolant. Brought it to service center at Ourisman Hyundai Laurel, they stated “the hose to the thermostat was not all the way on. Put hose on correctly no more leaking.” On 10/15/25 multiple lights came on the dashboard including the master warning light. Took car to Ourisman Hyundai Laurel again; received the car back, dealership stated “ TECH COULD NOT DUPLICATE THE LIGHTS POPPING ON DASHBOARD. UPON FURTHER DIAGNOSIS TECH FOUND THAT THERE WAS A CONNECTOR NOT GETTING THE PROPER CONTACT TO COIL NUMBER 1 TECH RECONNECTED THE CONNECTOR AND TEST DROVE THE VEHICLE FOR 5 MILES. NO CONCERNS PRESENT AT THIS TIME.” On 10/20 I brought the car in to Ourisman Hyundai Laurel again because Electronic Stability Control light as well as ABS warning light and several other warning lights came on multiple times. Ourisman Hyundai Laurel service technician said they could not duplicate the problem and there is nothing they can do. This is a safety issue because it concerns the electronic stability control and brakes.
I had the radiator replaced by the Ourisman Hyundai Laurel dealership on 10/1/25. Radiator replacement was under warranty. On 10/4/25car overheated while driving. I pulled the car over and called for a tow truck. Car was leaking lots of coolant. Brought it to service center at Ourisman Hyundai Laurel, they stated “the hose to the thermostat was not all the way on. Put hose on correctly no more leaking.” On 10/15/25 multiple lights came on the dashboard including the master warning light. Took car to Ourisman Hyundai Laurel again; received the car back, dealership stated “ TECH COULD NOT DUPLICATE THE LIGHTS POPPING ON DASHBOARD. UPON FURTHER DIAGNOSIS TECH FOUND THAT THERE WAS A CONNECTOR NOT GETTING THE PROPER CONTACT TO COIL NUMBER 1 TECH RECONNECTED THE CONNECTOR AND TEST DROVE THE VEHICLE FOR 5 MILES. NO CONCERNS PRESENT AT THIS TIME.” On 10/20 I brought the car in to Ourisman Hyundai Laurel again because Electronic Stability Control light as well as ABS warning light and several other warning lights came on multiple times. Ourisman Hyundai Laurel service technician said they could not duplicate the problem and there is nothing they can do. This is a safety issue because it concerns the electronic stability control and brakes.
The horn on my 2022 Hyundai Kona has failed multiple times. It has been replaced twice already, and it has stopped working again at around 65,000 miles. This is a serious safety concern as I am unable to alert other drivers in emergency situations. The repeated failure of the horn suggests a possible defect in the electrical system or horn assembly. I am requesting an investigation into this issue.
The horn on my 2022 Hyundai Kona has failed multiple times. It has been replaced twice already, and it has stopped working again at around 65,000 miles. This is a serious safety concern as I am unable to alert other drivers in emergency situations. The repeated failure of the horn suggests a possible defect in the electrical system or horn assembly. I am requesting an investigation into this issue.
There would be a stumble when accelerating up to highway speeds at random times. During acceleration on a highway on August 30, 2025, that stumble became constant and the engine light came on. Exhaust sounds was no longer smooth and constant but rather a constant sputter. Greater vibration was felt in the car anytime the accelerator was depressed. Pulled off the highway and can visually see the motor vibrating significantly. When accelerating from a stop or crawling speed, it struggles to move and I can feel the resistance of the car not wanting to accelerate. Auto parts store scanned the code and it came back as a misfire in cylinder 3. Concerned about engine damage, being stranded, or causing an accident, the car was dropped it off at the Hyundai dealership. At that time (around 2pm) I was far from home and the service center was closed. On 9/5/2025 I was notified that the fuel injectors will need to be replaced and they are currently on order.
There would be a stumble when accelerating up to highway speeds at random times. During acceleration on a highway on August 30, 2025, that stumble became constant and the engine light came on. Exhaust sounds was no longer smooth and constant but rather a constant sputter. Greater vibration was felt in the car anytime the accelerator was depressed. Pulled off the highway and can visually see the motor vibrating significantly. When accelerating from a stop or crawling speed, it struggles to move and I can feel the resistance of the car not wanting to accelerate. Auto parts store scanned the code and it came back as a misfire in cylinder 3. Concerned about engine damage, being stranded, or causing an accident, the car was dropped it off at the Hyundai dealership. At that time (around 2pm) I was far from home and the service center was closed. On 9/5/2025 I was notified that the fuel injectors will need to be replaced and they are currently on order.
I found a lot of debris of metals contaminated in the gear reduction oil when I changed my gear reduction oil. I had a Vortex oil lug nut, which it sucks all of the metal debris in. I have pictures of that as a proof. I think this is a design flaw that Hyundai should recall, but they didn’t. Now it caused a clicking noise whenever I accelerate or step on the accelerator pedal. Additionally, their are some glitches with their software where it disconnected the wireless Apple car play and the back up camera didn’t show up sometimes whenever I put into reverse.
I found a lot of debris of metals contaminated in the gear reduction oil when I changed my gear reduction oil. I had a Vortex oil lug nut, which it sucks all of the metal debris in. I have pictures of that as a proof. I think this is a design flaw that Hyundai should recall, but they didn’t. Now it caused a clicking noise whenever I accelerate or step on the accelerator pedal. Additionally, their are some glitches with their software where it disconnected the wireless Apple car play and the back up camera didn’t show up sometimes whenever I put into reverse.
On Saturday, [XXX], while driving on the highway, the oil plug on my vehicle suddenly fell out, causing all the oil to drain rapidly. This created an extreme safety hazard not only for myself but also for other drivers on the road. I did not notice the oil spillage until the oil light on the dash appeared. At the time, I was in the leftmost lane traveling at highway speeds, so I could not stop immediately. I had to carefully veer across five lanes of traffic and navigate out of a construction zone before I was able to pull over safely. The engine lost lubrication during this process, and I was forced to have the vehicle towed to Ed Napleton Hyundai in Hazelwood, the same dealership where I purchased and serviced the car, for inspection and repairs. This incident occurred just three weeks after I had an oil change performed at the same dealership. I have been attempting to contact the dealership for updates on the status of my vehicle and the investigation into potential engine damage for the past three days, but I have received limited information until today, when the service manager, Jerry, stated that they installed a new plug and added oil, and since it's not ticking, it's okay. However, having worked in the automotive industry for years, I know that a full teardown is necessary to properly check for damage, including inspecting the bearings, rings, cylinder walls, and turbo for signs of oil starvation. This service was not performed. Additionally, Jerry informed me that speaking to someone higher up would do absolutely nothing for me. This is not an isolated issue. Over the course of my ownership, the dealership has damaged my oil filter by over-tightening and stripping it on two separate occasions during routine maintenance, requiring me to return to the facility each time. On both instances, I had to wait an additional 2 to 3 hours while they installed replacement parts to correct their errors. These repeated mistakes have caused significant inconv INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMAT
On Saturday, [XXX], while driving on the highway, the oil plug on my vehicle suddenly fell out, causing all the oil to drain rapidly. This created an extreme safety hazard not only for myself but also for other drivers on the road. I did not notice the oil spillage until the oil light on the dash appeared. At the time, I was in the leftmost lane traveling at highway speeds, so I could not stop immediately. I had to carefully veer across five lanes of traffic and navigate out of a construction zone before I was able to pull over safely. The engine lost lubrication during this process, and I was forced to have the vehicle towed to Ed Napleton Hyundai in Hazelwood, the same dealership where I purchased and serviced the car, for inspection and repairs. This incident occurred just three weeks after I had an oil change performed at the same dealership. I have been attempting to contact the dealership for updates on the status of my vehicle and the investigation into potential engine damage for the past three days, but I have received limited information until today, when the service manager, Jerry, stated that they installed a new plug and added oil, and since it's not ticking, it's okay. However, having worked in the automotive industry for years, I know that a full teardown is necessary to properly check for damage, including inspecting the bearings, rings, cylinder walls, and turbo for signs of oil starvation. This service was not performed. Additionally, Jerry informed me that speaking to someone higher up would do absolutely nothing for me. This is not an isolated issue. Over the course of my ownership, the dealership has damaged my oil filter by over-tightening and stripping it on two separate occasions during routine maintenance, requiring me to return to the facility each time. On both instances, I had to wait an additional 2 to 3 hours while they installed replacement parts to correct their errors. These repeated mistakes have caused significant inconv INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMAT
My horn on my car has went out the first time and now it just went out again and it’s a manufacturing issue! Hyundai refuses to fix it because it’s not under warranty anymore! And it’s so dangerous now since I don’t have a horn again! I should have not have to fix it when it’s not my fault! And other people have the same issue with your Kona’s to! The dealership even told me that’s it’s been an issue with the horns!
My horn on my car has went out the first time and now it just went out again and it’s a manufacturing issue! Hyundai refuses to fix it because it’s not under warranty anymore! And it’s so dangerous now since I don’t have a horn again! I should have not have to fix it when it’s not my fault! And other people have the same issue with your Kona’s to! The dealership even told me that’s it’s been an issue with the horns!
For the second time in 6months, the horn has stopped working. Coastal Hyundai in Melbourne FL replaced the first horn on 1/14/2025. On [XXX], the horn has stopped working again. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)
For the second time in 6months, the horn has stopped working. Coastal Hyundai in Melbourne FL replaced the first horn on 1/14/2025. On [XXX], the horn has stopped working again. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)
The contact owns a 2022 Hyundai Kona. The contact stated while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle lost motive power with the check engine warning light illuminated. The vehicle was able to be restarted. The vehicle was taken to the dealer but was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 80,000.
The contact owns a 2022 Hyundai Kona. The contact stated while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle lost motive power with the check engine warning light illuminated. The vehicle was able to be restarted. The vehicle was taken to the dealer but was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 80,000.
1. Component or System Failed or Malfunctioned: The primary component that has consistently failed or malfunctioned is the air conditioning (AC) system. The AC unit does not adequately cool the vehicle's cabin, especially in hot weather. The vehicle is available for inspection upon request; it has been previously inspected by authorized Hyundai dealerships. 2. How Safety was Put at Risk: The malfunctioning AC unit poses a significant health and safety risk, particularly due to the presence of a [XXX] infant who frequently rides in the vehicle. Driving in a hot car without effective cooling can lead to heat-related distress for a young child. There is also a concern that this persistent issue may indicate a broader manufacturing defect, potentially warranting a safety recall. 3. Problem Reproduced or Confirmed by Dealer/Service Center: Yes, the problem has been repeatedly reproduced and confirmed by an authorized Hyundai dealership. Paramus Hyundai has examined this specific AC issue on four separate occasions during the last summer, and a fifth visit is now scheduled/imminent. Despite these multiple service attempts, the issue remains unresolved. 4. Inspection by Manufacturer, Police, Insurance, or Others: The vehicle and its AC component have been inspected multiple times by an authorized Hyundai dealer (Paramus Hyundai). The manufacturer, Hyundai Motor America, is aware of this ongoing issue, as evidenced by two formal customer service cases: an older case (Case Number: [XXX]) handled by Customer Service Specialist Raghad, and a more recent, open case (Case Number: [XXX]) handled by Customer Service Specialist Simran. The repeated advice given for the new case is the same as previous attempts, indicating a lack of definitive resolution despite manufacturer involvement through their customer service channels. 5. Warning Lamps, Messages, or Other Symptoms: No specific warning lamps or messages have appeared on the vehicle's dashboard related to the INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION
1. Component or System Failed or Malfunctioned: The primary component that has consistently failed or malfunctioned is the air conditioning (AC) system. The AC unit does not adequately cool the vehicle's cabin, especially in hot weather. The vehicle is available for inspection upon request; it has been previously inspected by authorized Hyundai dealerships. 2. How Safety was Put at Risk: The malfunctioning AC unit poses a significant health and safety risk, particularly due to the presence of a [XXX] infant who frequently rides in the vehicle. Driving in a hot car without effective cooling can lead to heat-related distress for a young child. There is also a concern that this persistent issue may indicate a broader manufacturing defect, potentially warranting a safety recall. 3. Problem Reproduced or Confirmed by Dealer/Service Center: Yes, the problem has been repeatedly reproduced and confirmed by an authorized Hyundai dealership. Paramus Hyundai has examined this specific AC issue on four separate occasions during the last summer, and a fifth visit is now scheduled/imminent. Despite these multiple service attempts, the issue remains unresolved. 4. Inspection by Manufacturer, Police, Insurance, or Others: The vehicle and its AC component have been inspected multiple times by an authorized Hyundai dealer (Paramus Hyundai). The manufacturer, Hyundai Motor America, is aware of this ongoing issue, as evidenced by two formal customer service cases: an older case (Case Number: [XXX]) handled by Customer Service Specialist Raghad, and a more recent, open case (Case Number: [XXX]) handled by Customer Service Specialist Simran. The repeated advice given for the new case is the same as previous attempts, indicating a lack of definitive resolution despite manufacturer involvement through their customer service channels. 5. Warning Lamps, Messages, or Other Symptoms: No specific warning lamps or messages have appeared on the vehicle's dashboard related to the INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION
I believe it’s a barring in the engine but it is like a knocking.
I believe it’s a barring in the engine but it is like a knocking.
Radiator is failing between 60k and 70k miles with no check engine lights. Leaking an entire reservoir of coolant within a 24hr time period. Even when the temperature gage went above the middle mark and to the 3/4 mark the check engine light never came on.
Radiator is failing between 60k and 70k miles with no check engine lights. Leaking an entire reservoir of coolant within a 24hr time period. Even when the temperature gage went above the middle mark and to the 3/4 mark the check engine light never came on.
Knock sensor code P1326 has set my car into limp mode twice from getting wet after a car wash once and the other driving on a rainy day. Both times the dealership has replaced the knock sensor. The car suddenly loosing power on the highway going 65pmh and stock at only able 2k rpm is not safe. It's a known issues that yet to receive a recall or at least permanent fix.
Knock sensor code P1326 has set my car into limp mode twice from getting wet after a car wash once and the other driving on a rainy day. Both times the dealership has replaced the knock sensor. The car suddenly loosing power on the highway going 65pmh and stock at only able 2k rpm is not safe. It's a known issues that yet to receive a recall or at least permanent fix.
The horn stopped working less than a year after I bought the car brand new. The dealer finally agreed to repair/replace it in Feb 2024. Less than a year later it is not working again. A horn is important for alerting other drivers to impending collisions. It also leaves me without a panic button, another important safety feature.
The horn stopped working less than a year after I bought the car brand new. The dealer finally agreed to repair/replace it in Feb 2024. Less than a year later it is not working again. A horn is important for alerting other drivers to impending collisions. It also leaves me without a panic button, another important safety feature.
I have had my horn replaced three separate times at my local Hyundai dealership. It recently passed the NC vehicle inspection, but the horn failed the third time sometime after that inspection in Feb-2025. I have never had a horn EVER fail on ANY car I have owned for the past 50 years. A horn is a critical safety necessity and it is expected to work - especially in times of emergency. I was almost run off the highway, once by a semi-trailer and each time I discovered my horn had failed - it was due to my needing to use it to alert pedestrians or other motor vehicles to avoid accidents. The dealer would not reveal WHY this has failed three times except to state that they 'replaced the horn'. The dealer is the only one to have attempted an examination, diagnosis and supposed repair for this problem. There are no warning lights or other type of notification that would let me know of a horn failure. The only way to know that it had failed - was my immediate need to employ the use of the horn in an emergency - and it's silence aka malfunction at the worst possible times.
I have had my horn replaced three separate times at my local Hyundai dealership. It recently passed the NC vehicle inspection, but the horn failed the third time sometime after that inspection in Feb-2025. I have never had a horn EVER fail on ANY car I have owned for the past 50 years. A horn is a critical safety necessity and it is expected to work - especially in times of emergency. I was almost run off the highway, once by a semi-trailer and each time I discovered my horn had failed - it was due to my needing to use it to alert pedestrians or other motor vehicles to avoid accidents. The dealer would not reveal WHY this has failed three times except to state that they 'replaced the horn'. The dealer is the only one to have attempted an examination, diagnosis and supposed repair for this problem. There are no warning lights or other type of notification that would let me know of a horn failure. The only way to know that it had failed - was my immediate need to employ the use of the horn in an emergency - and it's silence aka malfunction at the worst possible times.
On February 3rd 2025, directly after putting my Kona in park, I felt it pulsing, saw the RPM dial bouncing repeatedly up and down, and the overhead lights flickering in rhythm with the vibrating/pulsing and RPM dial bounces. I recorded this incident, then turned my car off and on again at which point these observations could not be repeated - in other words, the car was acting fine. There were no other observable issues until March 1st, 2025, when these exact symptoms emerged under different circumstances. I came to an idle at a red light (with the auto-start/stop feature turned off for this drive) when the RPM bouncing, car pulsing back and forth, and lights flickering happened again. My car felt as though it was about to stall this time until, thankfully, the light turned green and I could accelerate. The issues dissipated with acceleration. I have this incident on video as well. I have a little over 63K miles on this car. I drive all day for my job, so it's used often for short trips throughout the city.
On February 3rd 2025, directly after putting my Kona in park, I felt it pulsing, saw the RPM dial bouncing repeatedly up and down, and the overhead lights flickering in rhythm with the vibrating/pulsing and RPM dial bounces. I recorded this incident, then turned my car off and on again at which point these observations could not be repeated - in other words, the car was acting fine. There were no other observable issues until March 1st, 2025, when these exact symptoms emerged under different circumstances. I came to an idle at a red light (with the auto-start/stop feature turned off for this drive) when the RPM bouncing, car pulsing back and forth, and lights flickering happened again. My car felt as though it was about to stall this time until, thankfully, the light turned green and I could accelerate. The issues dissipated with acceleration. I have this incident on video as well. I have a little over 63K miles on this car. I drive all day for my job, so it's used often for short trips throughout the city.
Car will stop running and not start back up when stopped at a light or stop sign sometimes. I have started driving with the auto start stop off because I will be stuck at a light or stop sign because it will power off but not come back on again. This has occurred several times. The dealership told me there was no issue 11/22/24 but were willing to sell me another battery if I wanted to just replace the battery. The battery would test fine and then not and then fine again. I did price battery’s and they tested my battery at auto zone when pricing them and it tested fine with them also. They did not feel like it was a battery issue. I don’t either now since it stays on no problem when I turn off the auto start stop. There is something honestly wrong because if I leave that feature on, it will power off and sometimes stay off. The first times it happened was in November 2024 but it keeps happening. Sometimes i forget to click off the auto start stop and it will happen to me again but I shouldn’t have to turn that feature off to prevent my car from shutting down and not restarting when stopped.
Car will stop running and not start back up when stopped at a light or stop sign sometimes. I have started driving with the auto start stop off because I will be stuck at a light or stop sign because it will power off but not come back on again. This has occurred several times. The dealership told me there was no issue 11/22/24 but were willing to sell me another battery if I wanted to just replace the battery. The battery would test fine and then not and then fine again. I did price battery’s and they tested my battery at auto zone when pricing them and it tested fine with them also. They did not feel like it was a battery issue. I don’t either now since it stays on no problem when I turn off the auto start stop. There is something honestly wrong because if I leave that feature on, it will power off and sometimes stay off. The first times it happened was in November 2024 but it keeps happening. Sometimes i forget to click off the auto start stop and it will happen to me again but I shouldn’t have to turn that feature off to prevent my car from shutting down and not restarting when stopped.
While accelerating onto the highway, the engine backfired and suddenly lost speed, violently shaking.
While accelerating onto the highway, the engine backfired and suddenly lost speed, violently shaking.
The vehicle has lose of acceleration while driving.. On Freeway the gas pedal loses acceleration. Lift off gas it accelerates then loses acceleration again. (4 times in a row) It was a big safety issue. There was no where to pull off. I made it to the nearest exit and took backroads home. Took it to Dealership they couldn't replicate the issue. I contacted Hyundai and they had the car sent back to dealership and so far they can't replicate it. It has done this numerous times, at different times and speeds. The car is now at the dealership for the second time (since the 17 of December) There were NO WARNING LIGHTS so dealership says hard to diagnose the issues.
The vehicle has lose of acceleration while driving.. On Freeway the gas pedal loses acceleration. Lift off gas it accelerates then loses acceleration again. (4 times in a row) It was a big safety issue. There was no where to pull off. I made it to the nearest exit and took backroads home. Took it to Dealership they couldn't replicate the issue. I contacted Hyundai and they had the car sent back to dealership and so far they can't replicate it. It has done this numerous times, at different times and speeds. The car is now at the dealership for the second time (since the 17 of December) There were NO WARNING LIGHTS so dealership says hard to diagnose the issues.
HORN STOPS WORKING. IT STOPPED WORKING ABOUT A YEAR INTO OWNING THE CAR, THEN AGAIN A FEW WEEKS LATER. THE HORN SEEMS TO STOP WORKING AFTER WINDSHIELD WIPER FLUID IS REFILLED; NOT SURE IF IT'S RELATED THOUGH. I HAVE BEEN IN SITUATIONS WHERE I NEEDED TO USE THE HORN BUT WAS UNABLE TO BECAUSE IT WAS CONSTANTLY NOT WORKING.
HORN STOPS WORKING. IT STOPPED WORKING ABOUT A YEAR INTO OWNING THE CAR, THEN AGAIN A FEW WEEKS LATER. THE HORN SEEMS TO STOP WORKING AFTER WINDSHIELD WIPER FLUID IS REFILLED; NOT SURE IF IT'S RELATED THOUGH. I HAVE BEEN IN SITUATIONS WHERE I NEEDED TO USE THE HORN BUT WAS UNABLE TO BECAUSE IT WAS CONSTANTLY NOT WORKING.
During the winter the vehicle does not produce heat. There is a knocking sound from under the dash and only cold air comes out of all the vents. When it was 20 degrees out I measure 35 degree air out the vents over the couse of an hour drive. The car has been to the dealer multiple times for this issues. They have acknowledged the problem and have tried replaing different parts but the problem still occurs. It's very cold in the car when it's below freezing outside and it's difficult to clear the windows of fog, frost, and snow with no heat. The HVAC system will make the knocking sound when turing on the car and sometimes when driving also. Trying to adjust the temperature will sometimes trigger the noise. I feel the knocking sound and lack of hear are related.
During the winter the vehicle does not produce heat. There is a knocking sound from under the dash and only cold air comes out of all the vents. When it was 20 degrees out I measure 35 degree air out the vents over the couse of an hour drive. The car has been to the dealer multiple times for this issues. They have acknowledged the problem and have tried replaing different parts but the problem still occurs. It's very cold in the car when it's below freezing outside and it's difficult to clear the windows of fog, frost, and snow with no heat. The HVAC system will make the knocking sound when turing on the car and sometimes when driving also. Trying to adjust the temperature will sometimes trigger the noise. I feel the knocking sound and lack of hear are related.
Showing top 50 of 116 complaints (sorted by severity, most recent first). Full records available via NHTSA ODI search.
What Owners Are Saying
"Also made the leap! 2021 Hyundai Kona EV to 2022 Model Y Gas to EV (Mazda6 to Hyundai Kona EV) Three and a half years ago, my wife and I purchased a Kona EV in California. It was at the height of the "chip shortage" and we were originally going in for a gas vehicle. We had not considered purchasing an EV up to that point, and after having owned a Mazda 6, the Kona was small. But I worked from home, and my wife used the car to commute to her office, so it was fine. She had a few ChargePoint 9w chargers at her office, so the $15/month or so was so welcome when gas was $7+ per gallon in CA. 2021 Hyundai Kona EV The transition was easy enough, the car was very much like a traditional Hyundai, and we had owned a Sante Fe, so it was an easy transition to EV. There were no hiccups at all, even though we had no charging at home. About 1 year in, we moved to Florida. Now we have a garage, and I installed a 220 circuit with a 30A breaker. I have a 16w charger for that car, and while I could have gone up higher, the level 1 charging is totally fine for us. We keep the car to the end of the lease, and even extended it six more months because I had a Cyber Truck on order. Since moving to Florida, my wife is retired, and I am now struggling to find a new Cyber Security Solution Engineer role. So instead of getting the CT, we opted for a secondhand Model Y. Found a beautiful red model Y, super dark tinted windows. It has $53K miles, and we purchased it for $24900. 2022 Tesla Model Y We negotiated well I think, and we had them buff out and paint the rim rash before we took delivery. Immediate positive impressions: 1. Love the personalization options with our user profiles. 2. Love the increase in size, it is about the size of the Mazda 6. 3. Height of the driver seat makes my wife happy; she sits up higher while driving. 4. Charging schedule is awesome; the Kona didn't have that. 5. Able to use my old charger with a $20 adapter. 6. The interior trunk space is MASSIVE compared to the Kona! So much space! Concerns: 1. Changing the filters ASAP, smells less than ideal. 2. A lot to learn up front, software settings for my wife are a bit intimidating. 3. Garage door connectivity starts at $40/year or $300 for 10 years. Too pricy. 4. Premium connectivity necessary? Using my mobile hotspot for now. 5. I configured everything right before an update, it wiped it all out, had to redo. 6. Seems to drain the battery much faster than the Hyundai. The concerns are minimal for me, other than the battery drain. I see the MyQ garage door thing as a technical challenge. Going to play around with the RATGDO option before I spend money on MyQ. I may post a few things on that here over time, as I incorpora"
"21.4Ksaliturid replied May 22, 2025 Hyundai 280-hp Kona N Performance Discussion Starbird Mar 18, 2025 Surprise! Kona N OTA update while driving Was running an errand today when the Nav screen went blank, then came back with a message stating an update/install was pending for the Nav/Radio. Stated that the vehicle needed to be running until update was completed to "ensure a smooth software update"."
"2024 Kona Ultimate. Love it. Goldilocks size for my family. Drives well, comfortable interior. I did have a problem with the moonroof switch or motor, had to remove and reinsert the fuse to fix it. Will have it looked at soon. I looked at the bZ at the time, it was not well rated and specs were poor. I think it might be better now, not sure."
"Since I got my 2024 Kona Essential we have had trouble getting wireless Android auto to connect. After installing the software update, It finally connects every time I get in the Kona. If Hyundai Canada was pushing OTA updates to our cars, the problem would have been solved much sooner. Our Kona... 21.4Ksaliturid replied May 22, 2025 Engine and Technical Discussion brian\_tay50 Mar 24, 2025 Software issue?? Can't turn off speed limit warning beep. Told by dealer it's new software update. My Kona is just weeks old. Anyone with same issues? 1800mik207mulla replied Mar 25, 2025"
"#1· Nov 27, 2025 I shall, for once, not go off into a rant regarding my opinions of Hyundai software, but having recently had the car in the dealers, I had assumed that they would return it with any updates installed. How naive can a person be ?? However, the Nav U.I is so attrocious, the other-half has given up using it, and how hard could it be? So, I thought I'd have a go myself. 1st, via the car. Go to the Software screen where ours shows 231107, so nothing new in 2 years. Then I see the 'Update' button is Greyed-out. Check various other menus, but nothing possible it appears. Check Bluelink. Nothing there either. OK, do it manually. Go to the Hyundai.com EU update guide, and see there is a Sept '25 version. Great. Install the .exe file and follow the process where it asked for the current version and showed there was a 2025 one available......you just need a 64 Giga-byte thumb drive. 64 !!! Biggest I have is 32, so thwarted, and a thought occurs. 'I wonder if anyone has suffered problems after an update? '"
"Help! US Hyundai Kona N Line 2024, CarPlay Broken, Can’t Update, No Dealer Support Abroad Hi everyone, I’m at a loss and really need advice from anyone who’s dealt with U.S.-spec Hyundais abroad or ccNC head unit issues. **The Problem:** * I imported a 2024 Hyundai Kona N Line from the U.S. to Iraq. * Apple CarPlay does **not work** on my current infotainment software (ccNC head unit, SW: SX2.USA.ccNC.001.001.230901). * When I try to update the head unit with an official Hyundai Navigation Updater USB (from the U.S. update site), the car INSTANTLY shows:*“Please check the device containing the update files and try again.”* * The car never scans the USB at all – it just rejects it immediately. **What I’ve Tried:** * **Contacted Hyundai USA (Bluelink, Mapnsoft/Navigation, and Consumer Affairs):** * They told me they don’t support cars located outside the USA/Canada. * They also told me all U.S. head unit updates are unavailable globally until mid/late October due to a “temporary server issue.” (Email attached below.) * **Contacted Hyundai Middle East/Bluelink MEA:** * They stated that they only officially support Bluelink for cars sold and registered in the Middle East. * Explicitly refused to help with Apple CarPlay or software updates for U.S. imports (screenshot below). * **Visited local authorized dealer in Baghdad (Al-Oula Motors):** * Dealer refused to even look at the car as soon as they learned it was a U.S. import. * I clarified to all of them that I **don’t need navigation or maps**, just an infotainment system update so CarPlay will work. * **Tried all USB formatting tricks** (FAT32, NTFS, different brands, sizes, both SSD and regular stick). * **Advanced firmware hack methods aren’t even possible**: since U.S. update files are now blocked/unavailable until October, I can’t download the latest .swu files to try bootloader workarounds. **Emails and Responses:** * Hyundai USA: “We don’t support updates or troubleshooting outside North America. Updates globally are down until October.” * Hyundai MEA: “We do not support U.S.-spec vehicles. Bluelink and CarPlay support is not available for imports.” * Local Dealer: “No support for U.S. vehicles.” **So Now I’m Stuck:** * CarPlay is dead. * Can’t update firmware/infotainment. * No local, regional, or official U.S. support. * Even DIY update tricks are blocked by Hyundai’s current update blackout for U.S. vehicles. **Has ANYONE found a workaround or third-party solution for this?** * Is there a way to “unlock” USB update mode on the ccNC unit? * Will a U.S.-spec head unit *ever* be updateable abroad, or am I just out of luck? * Any alternative to at **least restore basic CarPlay**, even if I lose navigation? **Any help or experience would be really appreciated.** I’ll post screenshots of the emails and error messages if needed. Thanks in advance!"
"Grayson Hyundai Knoxville TN I’m reaching out regarding an ongoing issue with the service department at Grayson Hyundai that I believe warrants further review. In 2022, I purchased a brand-new Hyundai Kona from Twin City Hyundai at age 20—my first new car. I’ve loved it since day one. It’s now three years old with just over 30,000 miles, still well under warranty. At around 20,000 miles, I began noticing that the car would shake between 35–45 MPH but smooth out above that speed. When I brought it to Grayson Hyundai for service, I was told by both the manager (Brian) and a service advisor (Colleen) that I needed new tires. Given the car’s age and mileage, I believed the tires should be covered under warranty. However, I was told I’d have to contact the selling dealership, Twin City Hyundai, to file a tire warranty claim. When I spoke with Twin City Hyundai, their service advisor explained I’d need proof that my tires were rotated, balanced, and aligned every six months. When I asked Grayson Hyundai for my service records, I discovered that my car had never been aligned, making me ineligible to claim the tire warranty. Feeling frustrated, I declined to purchase new tires from Grayson and instead went to Tire Discounters in Farragut, where I purchased new tires. Unfortunately, the same shaking issue continued immediately afterward—confirming that the tires were not the problem. I had just spent $1,500 with no resolution. I called Grayson Hyundai again, waited on hold for over 15 minutes, and was eventually told to bring the car back in. On August 12, I dropped it off and was provided a loaner vehicle. Communication with my service advisor, Sam, was primarily through text, which I appreciated due to my work schedule. After several days, Sam confirmed that they could feel the problem but couldn’t identify the cause. They tested with different wheels, inspected the transmission and drivetrain, and eventually escalated the claim to Hyundai corporate. In mid-September, they suspected the axles might be the issue and ordered replacements. I was told the axles would arrive in Atlanta on October 11, and then a few days later at Grayson. However, on October 16, after not receiving any update, I reached out again—only to learn that the axles had been redirected elsewhere and were once again on backorder. Since then, communication has broken down entirely. I’ve tried multiple times to contact Service Manager Steve K. via phone and email, but I’ve been unable to reach him. I’ve spoken with several advisors, but the answers are inconsistent, and I’m left feeling ignored and uncertain about what’s next. My biggest concern is that no one can confirm whether replacing the axles will even solve the problem, and statements like “fingers crossed this works” don’t inspire confidence. As a young customer who trusted this dealership to handle my vehicle properly, I feel completely dismissed and unsupported. At this point, I simply want a safe, reliable resolution. I’ve"
"Grayson Hyundai Knoxville Tennessee I’m reaching out regarding an ongoing issue with the service department at Grayson Hyundai that I believe warrants further review. In 2022, I purchased a brand-new Hyundai Kona from Twin City Hyundai at age 20—my first new car. I’ve loved it since day one. It’s now three years old with just over 30,000 miles, still well under warranty. At around 20,000 miles, I began noticing that the car would shake between 35–45 MPH but smooth out above that speed. When I brought it to Grayson Hyundai for service, I was told by both the manager (Brian) and a service advisor (Colleen) that I needed new tires. Given the car’s age and mileage, I believed the tires should be covered under warranty. However, I was told I’d have to contact the selling dealership, Twin City Hyundai, to file a tire warranty claim. When I spoke with Twin City Hyundai, their service advisor explained I’d need proof that my tires were rotated, balanced, and aligned every six months. When I asked Grayson Hyundai for my service records, I discovered that my car had never been aligned, making me ineligible to claim the tire warranty. Feeling frustrated, I declined to purchase new tires from Grayson and instead went to Tire Discounters in Farragut, where I purchased new tires. Unfortunately, the same shaking issue continued immediately afterward—confirming that the tires were not the problem. I had just spent $1,500 with no resolution. I called Grayson Hyundai again, waited on hold for over 15 minutes, and was eventually told to bring the car back in. On August 12, I dropped it off and was provided a loaner vehicle. Communication with my service advisor, Sam, was primarily through text, which I appreciated due to my work schedule. After several days, Sam confirmed that they could feel the problem but couldn’t identify the cause. They tested with different wheels, inspected the transmission and drivetrain, and eventually escalated the claim to Hyundai corporate. In mid-September, they suspected the axles might be the issue and ordered replacements. I was told the axles would arrive in Atlanta on October 11, and then a few days later at Grayson. However, on October 16, after not receiving any update, I reached out again—only to learn that the axles had been redirected elsewhere and were once again on backorder. Since then, communication has broken down entirely. I’ve tried multiple times to contact Service Manager Steve K. via phone and email, but I’ve been unable to reach him. I’ve spoken with several advisors, but the answers are inconsistent, and I’m left feeling ignored and uncertain about what’s next. My biggest concern is that no one can confirm whether replacing the axles will even solve the problem, and statements like “fingers crossed this works” don’t inspire confidence. As a young customer who trusted this dealership to handle my vehicle properly, I feel completely dismissed and unsupported. At this point, I simply want a safe, reliable resolution"
Showing 8 of 40 owner excerpts (sorted by sentiment strength)