2025 Hyundai Kona Electric Standard Range
Electric SUV · FWD
Based on battery health, build quality, owner data, EPA range, and market pricing
Above average for 2025 EV SUVs (class avg 66 · top 11%)
Personalize this scoreIs a low score bad?
Last scanned 22 days ago
The 2025 Hyundai Kona Electric Standard Range is rated at 201 hp, 200 miles of EPA range and a 65 kWh battery, and plan around the short range and check that home and route charging cover daily use.
Score read
A 73/100 makes this worth pursuing if the price is sane. The useful split is software and driver-assist score at 96/100 versus range and efficiency score at 53/100. Reddit threads cluster around software tech and owner satisfaction — verify both against the service records. A good score still needs a battery report, service history, and a normal test drive.
Price context
This trim started from $32,975 new. Used examples have come down since launch, but pricing varies by miles, condition, and how the model is moving right now; pull a current KBB Fair Purchase, an Edmunds True Market Value, or an active dealer listing for this exact trim, and anchor your offer there. Walk if the seller will not move off new-car-style pricing.
Who this is for
✓ Good for
- ⏱ Daily commuter ≤50 mi/day, predictable charging
- ★ Weekend driver Performance, fun, low mileage
✗ Avoid if you are a
- ☷ Family hauler 3+ kids, cargo, towing
- ↦ Road tripper Long trips, needs DC fast network
- $ Bargain hunter Best TCO, reliability + low depreciation
Gotchas
- Built in Range is the easy place to overbuy this trim (53/100).
Mitigation Check your commute, winter margin, and fast-charge plan before you assume the EPA number fits your use.
- Verify Current market pricing is not confirmed well enough for this trim.
Mitigation Compare KBB, J.D. Power, and live listings for the same trim before treating price as a buying signal.
Pre-purchase inspection
- 1 Compare the dashboard range estimate with the EPA 200-mile rating after a full charge.
- 2 Confirm how much of the 10-year/100,000-mile battery warranty remains and whether it transfers.
- 3 If road trips matter, run a short DC fast-charge session and watch whether speed tapers normally.
- 4 Map your normal highway route and winter margin against the EPA range before you treat it as a road-trip car.
- 5 Review title, service history, tire condition, and charging-equipment records before final price.
No recall records in this scan That helps the shortlist, but it does not replace a VIN lookup, battery report, and service-history check.
Complaint context This scan found 22 NHTSA complaint records (7.9 per 10K VINs, near industry average). Read the themes below before treating the raw count as the verdict.
Price anchor Current market range is $26,045-$26,799. Use that range to compare listings for the same trim, mileage, and condition.
Pricing & Market Value
Score Breakdown
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Drag the sliders to prioritize what you care about. Your TrimIndex Score recalculates instantly.
Vehicle Specifications
EVs at your price point that match or beat this trim
Price-gated peer set: vehicles within $21.1K–$31.7K market value (±20% of $26.4K). 0 outscore · 5 score within ±2. Mixed across makes — no "spend more, score better" comps.
Kona
- ✓ Better build quality
EV6
- ✓ +110 mi more range
- ✓ Better bang-for-buck
- ✓ 800V DC charging
Niro
- ✓ Different trade-offs at the same price
Kona
- ✓ Different trade-offs at the same price
EV6
- ✓ +110 mi more range
- ✓ 800V DC charging
The federal $4,000 used-EV credit ended Sept 30, 2025.
But 10 states still run their own used-EV rebate programs — some up to $5,000. Pick your state to see what's available for this trim.
Source & disclaimer
Dealers make ~$8,386 on the average car loan.
After the price is set, the finance manager runs four plays to rebuild margin. Every buyer without a pre-approval is a target. Here's exactly what they run — and what stops each one.
78% of dealer loans carry a hidden +1.13% markup above what the lender actually charges. You never see it — it's buried in the contract. · CFPB
Dealer must match or beat your lender — they can't add margin invisibly. The markup play is dead on arrival.
Once you answer, they stretch the term to hit your number. Median result: $4K less off the price, 12 more months on the loan. · Industry avg
Financing is done. Only the sale price is on the table — and the dealer knows it.
Back-office F&I profit averages $1,975/vehicle, up 8.5% YoY. These products exist — but dealer markup is 4–10x what you'd pay elsewhere. · Dealership Guy
Dealer GAP runs $500–1K. Your insurer sells the same coverage for $100–250 over 5 years. Now you know.
"Your loan fell through — come re-sign." This pulls your APR up +5% on average. It's legal. It works because you've already driven the car home. · Ctr for Responsible Lending
A lender commitment letter means the deal is final. "Pending dealer approval" doesn't apply. You can't be yo-yo'd.
That's 21 months of your car payment — handed to the dealer's finance department for nothing.
Takes 2 minutes. No obligation to use it — but you'll walk in with all the leverage.
Pre-approval is a soft credit inquiry — no score impact. FICO treats all auto-loan hard pulls within 14 days as one, so you can still shop rates at the dealer.
NHTSA Recalls (0)
NHTSA Complaints (22 total · 7.9 per 10K US vehicles · near industry average)
While the cruise is set, traveling on I44 with no other car in front of my Kona, the adaptive cruise control will start to flash and apply brakes immediately. The speed will drop instantly. Thankfully no other vehicle has been behind me, otherwise it would have caused a massive wreck. I have taken the Kona to the shop 5 to 6 times for this situation, but they will not do anything since they can not duplicate it. I took a video recording of it happening, and they still would not do anything. The first incident was December 31, 2024. This happens every other week when I travel out of town for my daughter parenting time with her dad.
While the cruise is set, traveling on I44 with no other car in front of my Kona, the adaptive cruise control will start to flash and apply brakes immediately. The speed will drop instantly. Thankfully no other vehicle has been behind me, otherwise it would have caused a massive wreck. I have taken the Kona to the shop 5 to 6 times for this situation, but they will not do anything since they can not duplicate it. I took a video recording of it happening, and they still would not do anything. The first incident was December 31, 2024. This happens every other week when I travel out of town for my daughter parenting time with her dad.
The cruise control operation is unusual and the speed can vary greatly while it's engaged in moderately hilly terrain (not extreme) on the interstate ([XXX] through Kentucky and Tennessee). With the cruise set at interstate speeds and starting to climb a hill, the speed can drop by as much as 6mph below set point as the cruise control very, very slowly starts to increase throttle to compensate for the grade. Eventually it will stop the deceleration at that up to 6mph speed below the set point, before slowly starting to accelerate back up to the set point. One instance I timed was 22 seconds between the speed first falling below the set point, down to 6mph below, before recovering back to the set point. Sometimes it overshoots the set point by 2mph, meaning it could cause you to exceed the speed limit and/or your intended driving speed if the uphill is long enough for the speed to fully recover itself. It is not an issue with vehicle power available as I can easily maintain an exact speed through the same hills using the throttle manually without cruise control, it is only an issue with how the cruise control is programmed or executed. An 8mph variance with cruise control on the interstate in non-extreme terrain is a safety concern because it makes the vehicle unpredictable by other drivers who are trying to time their maneuvers around trucks and other vehicles and when my car suddenly slows significantly next to them they have to suddenly change or abort their maneuvers. It has not been reviewed or inspected by anyone else. It is a rental vehicle and not available for inspection by request from me, but may be from the owner. There were no warning lights or any other indication there was a problem recognized by the vehicle. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)
The cruise control operation is unusual and the speed can vary greatly while it's engaged in moderately hilly terrain (not extreme) on the interstate ([XXX] through Kentucky and Tennessee). With the cruise set at interstate speeds and starting to climb a hill, the speed can drop by as much as 6mph below set point as the cruise control very, very slowly starts to increase throttle to compensate for the grade. Eventually it will stop the deceleration at that up to 6mph speed below the set point, before slowly starting to accelerate back up to the set point. One instance I timed was 22 seconds between the speed first falling below the set point, down to 6mph below, before recovering back to the set point. Sometimes it overshoots the set point by 2mph, meaning it could cause you to exceed the speed limit and/or your intended driving speed if the uphill is long enough for the speed to fully recover itself. It is not an issue with vehicle power available as I can easily maintain an exact speed through the same hills using the throttle manually without cruise control, it is only an issue with how the cruise control is programmed or executed. An 8mph variance with cruise control on the interstate in non-extreme terrain is a safety concern because it makes the vehicle unpredictable by other drivers who are trying to time their maneuvers around trucks and other vehicles and when my car suddenly slows significantly next to them they have to suddenly change or abort their maneuvers. It has not been reviewed or inspected by anyone else. It is a rental vehicle and not available for inspection by request from me, but may be from the owner. There were no warning lights or any other indication there was a problem recognized by the vehicle. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)
I was driving on the highway around 70 to 75 MPH and suddenly the sunroof exploded. No debris impact. Just suddenly and randomly the glass just exploded and shattered.
I was driving on the highway around 70 to 75 MPH and suddenly the sunroof exploded. No debris impact. Just suddenly and randomly the glass just exploded and shattered.
Mushy brake pedal after 1000 miles This just started yesterday, seemingly out of nowhere. When I push the brake pedal it's mushier than it used to be. If I push hard, I get more resistance at first but then it slowly sinks toward the floor as a I continue to press. If I push softer then it just sinks toward the floor. I still have plenty of stopping power. If I push the pedal repeatedly then it builds up more resistance ("pump the brakes") but then the resistance calms down and it becomes mushy again.
Mushy brake pedal after 1000 miles This just started yesterday, seemingly out of nowhere. When I push the brake pedal it's mushier than it used to be. If I push hard, I get more resistance at first but then it slowly sinks toward the floor as a I continue to press. If I push softer then it just sinks toward the floor. I still have plenty of stopping power. If I push the pedal repeatedly then it builds up more resistance ("pump the brakes") but then the resistance calms down and it becomes mushy again.
I was driving down my street (one way) at 20mph when all of a sudden, the car veered to the left and smashed into a dumpster that was parked on the street. I had driven down my block several times during the day and was aware of the dumpster. I am convinced that the lane assist malfunctioned and drove into the side of the dumpster. I was not distracted and my brand new, 2025 Hyundai Kona was totaled in the accident. I had minor injuries but could have been much worse. I am not sure who to contact to report this and not sure it could be proven. Any help you can give me I will appreciate.
I was driving down my street (one way) at 20mph when all of a sudden, the car veered to the left and smashed into a dumpster that was parked on the street. I had driven down my block several times during the day and was aware of the dumpster. I am convinced that the lane assist malfunctioned and drove into the side of the dumpster. I was not distracted and my brand new, 2025 Hyundai Kona was totaled in the accident. I had minor injuries but could have been much worse. I am not sure who to contact to report this and not sure it could be proven. Any help you can give me I will appreciate.
The embedded navigation system tends to provide directions getting the vehicle into off road areas that are not designated to be driven. This not only causes damages to the car but also leads to unsafe situations. While driving in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan headed to the Kitch-Iti-Kipi, it took me to tall grass and high voltage towers almost getting me to a ditch. While driving in St. Augustine Beach, it almost took me to the ocean. While driving near Lubbock Texas around a detour due to construction, it almost took me to a cliff.
The embedded navigation system tends to provide directions getting the vehicle into off road areas that are not designated to be driven. This not only causes damages to the car but also leads to unsafe situations. While driving in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan headed to the Kitch-Iti-Kipi, it took me to tall grass and high voltage towers almost getting me to a ditch. While driving in St. Augustine Beach, it almost took me to the ocean. While driving near Lubbock Texas around a detour due to construction, it almost took me to a cliff.
While slowing down from highway speed during hot weather, the front passenger door suddenly became unlatched and partially opened. A warning alert sounded, and I had to pull the door closed. There were no prior warnings or symptoms, and the dealer has not been able to reproduce the issue.
While slowing down from highway speed during hot weather, the front passenger door suddenly became unlatched and partially opened. A warning alert sounded, and I had to pull the door closed. There were no prior warnings or symptoms, and the dealer has not been able to reproduce the issue.
Engine light was on - I was told by Belmont Enterprise on Sept 17th to keep driving the vehicle even though it needed repairs immediately.
Engine light was on - I was told by Belmont Enterprise on Sept 17th to keep driving the vehicle even though it needed repairs immediately.
This is second time all electrical has gone dead in the car. First time I took car in for an update and now something is still draining the battery. I have read multiple posts online of this issue. The car has less than 5000 mile on it
This is second time all electrical has gone dead in the car. First time I took car in for an update and now something is still draining the battery. I have read multiple posts online of this issue. The car has less than 5000 mile on it
See attached document for complaint.
See attached document for complaint.
As part of Hyundai’s Driver Attention Warning system, it plays a loud beeping noise that disables other systems in the car (map, audio). This beeping noise plays at random times and has been heavily distracting on long drives almost causing me to crash due to issues with my hearing and the frequency of the noise. It cannot be disabled. I would be happy to present the vehicle for inspection. The dealership and manufacturer have not responded to calls or have given unsatisfactory feedback as to solutions. This alarm has gone off about three times within the past 10 minutes and i am struggling to drive long distances with it on. Any help please.
As part of Hyundai’s Driver Attention Warning system, it plays a loud beeping noise that disables other systems in the car (map, audio). This beeping noise plays at random times and has been heavily distracting on long drives almost causing me to crash due to issues with my hearing and the frequency of the noise. It cannot be disabled. I would be happy to present the vehicle for inspection. The dealership and manufacturer have not responded to calls or have given unsatisfactory feedback as to solutions. This alarm has gone off about three times within the past 10 minutes and i am struggling to drive long distances with it on. Any help please.
Significant Mechanical and Drivetrain Problems: ◦ Loss of Drive Power and Sluggish Acceleration: Reported as early as [XXX] ("bumpy driving, grinding and clanking noise"), with issues worsening by [XXX] ("slower acceleration, bumpier ride, metal clinking and cracking sounds"), and most severely on [XXX] ("car shifts hard to the left then goes back and forth (wobble)," "greatly reduced" power, and "snapping" noises). You've had at least five repair attempts for these issues. ◦ Vehicle Shaking/Wobbling: This has been a recurring complaint since [XXX] ("car shakes when accelerating") and continued through multiple visits, including [XXX] ("wobbly feeling"), [XXX] (shifts "back and forth (wobble)"), and [XXX] ("bounces excessively"). ◦ Loose Steering/Difficulty Turning: You've reported "difficulty turning" and "resistance when turning left," with a feeling of "less control" or "lack of control" while turning. This was noted on [XXX], and persisted through [XXX], and [XXX] ◦ Noises from Underneath the Vehicle: Complaints include "grinding and clanking noise" (XXX), "loud noises" ([XXX]), and "metal clinking and cracking sounds" (XXX), and "snapping" noises (XXX). • Electrical/Infotainment System Malfunctions: ◦ Interior and Exterior Lights Turning Off While Driving: On [XXX], all interior and exterior lights turned off for approximately 3 seconds while driving. ◦ BlueLink Service and Infotainment System Disconnects/Shutdowns: ongoing issues with BlueLink service, including loss of connectivity and interruptions. • Numerous Repair Attempts and Days Out of Service: ◦At least eight separate service visits for these issue INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)
Significant Mechanical and Drivetrain Problems: ◦ Loss of Drive Power and Sluggish Acceleration: Reported as early as [XXX] ("bumpy driving, grinding and clanking noise"), with issues worsening by [XXX] ("slower acceleration, bumpier ride, metal clinking and cracking sounds"), and most severely on [XXX] ("car shifts hard to the left then goes back and forth (wobble)," "greatly reduced" power, and "snapping" noises). You've had at least five repair attempts for these issues. ◦ Vehicle Shaking/Wobbling: This has been a recurring complaint since [XXX] ("car shakes when accelerating") and continued through multiple visits, including [XXX] ("wobbly feeling"), [XXX] (shifts "back and forth (wobble)"), and [XXX] ("bounces excessively"). ◦ Loose Steering/Difficulty Turning: You've reported "difficulty turning" and "resistance when turning left," with a feeling of "less control" or "lack of control" while turning. This was noted on [XXX], and persisted through [XXX], and [XXX] ◦ Noises from Underneath the Vehicle: Complaints include "grinding and clanking noise" (XXX), "loud noises" ([XXX]), and "metal clinking and cracking sounds" (XXX), and "snapping" noises (XXX). • Electrical/Infotainment System Malfunctions: ◦ Interior and Exterior Lights Turning Off While Driving: On [XXX], all interior and exterior lights turned off for approximately 3 seconds while driving. ◦ BlueLink Service and Infotainment System Disconnects/Shutdowns: ongoing issues with BlueLink service, including loss of connectivity and interruptions. • Numerous Repair Attempts and Days Out of Service: ◦At least eight separate service visits for these issue INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)
I was driving at 930pm in the dark at a speed of 30 mph and the car completely shut off all power. No warning signs. Just completely lost power. No headlights or interior lights. I was able to brake and stop the car and restarted it to continue on. Lu ckily I was on neighborhood roads with street lights and little traffic. This could have been extremely dangerous on a road with no lighting and a high speed. I am now scared to let my new teen driver use this car and we bought the car for her! The car was at 47 percent battery and only has 5000 miles on it. Seems in my current research this is somewhat common for Hyundai. Please make them fix this before someone is seriously injured!
I was driving at 930pm in the dark at a speed of 30 mph and the car completely shut off all power. No warning signs. Just completely lost power. No headlights or interior lights. I was able to brake and stop the car and restarted it to continue on. Lu ckily I was on neighborhood roads with street lights and little traffic. This could have been extremely dangerous on a road with no lighting and a high speed. I am now scared to let my new teen driver use this car and we bought the car for her! The car was at 47 percent battery and only has 5000 miles on it. Seems in my current research this is somewhat common for Hyundai. Please make them fix this before someone is seriously injured!
Transmission issues with this vehicle since 70 miles. Failed at 989 miles
Transmission issues with this vehicle since 70 miles. Failed at 989 miles
The contact owns a 2025 Hyundai Kona. The contact stated that while driving, she observed a loud explosion emanating from the roof of the vehicle. The contact slammed on her brakes and then steered the vehicle to the side of the road, where she observed crackling glass noises also emanating from the sunroof. The contact then exited the vehicle to inspect, where she observed the sunroof had a frisbee-sized hole in the middle. There was no impact on the sunroof. The contact called the police, but there was no police report taken. The contact stated that her ears began ringing, and medical attention was needed. The vehicle was taken to a dealer, where it was diagnosed that there was no natural cause of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure, and a complaint was filed. The failure mileage was 5,798.
The contact owns a 2025 Hyundai Kona. The contact stated that while driving, she observed a loud explosion emanating from the roof of the vehicle. The contact slammed on her brakes and then steered the vehicle to the side of the road, where she observed crackling glass noises also emanating from the sunroof. The contact then exited the vehicle to inspect, where she observed the sunroof had a frisbee-sized hole in the middle. There was no impact on the sunroof. The contact called the police, but there was no police report taken. The contact stated that her ears began ringing, and medical attention was needed. The vehicle was taken to a dealer, where it was diagnosed that there was no natural cause of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure, and a complaint was filed. The failure mileage was 5,798.
I have a 2025 Hyundai Kona Limited. On [XXX], around the afternoon on Sunnyvale, California, while exiting [XXX] headed to Lake Tahoe, the liftgate bolt that attaches to the body had buckled mechanically as the system did not back away when a flashlight that came out of a travel bag was blocking the way to have it closed. The car computer thinks the liftgate is open even though the lock is secured. The car computer allows to drive without seatbelts secured or closures ajar for a few seconds at low speed but then it automatically with little warning engages the electronic handbrake while driving. I was driving on a highway in a middle lane when the car engaged without my consent the electronic handbrake locking the wheels and I almost got rear ended and killed by a semitruck. I had to floor the gas pedal and steer to a shoulder to request a tow. Since it was a long weekend before Presidents Day, I had the car taken to the nearest dealer in Modesto California. Their service department invented a lie that due to a side crash, which was a failure of the collision mitigation system that happened months ago, is the cause and that it is my fault even though the driver admitted responsibility but it is an unrelated issue. There should be a way of overriding the car computer so it does not engage the electronic hand brake on the middle of the highway, specially at night as this creates a road hazard that can lead to death. I replicate the issue with a rental, a Hyundai Tucson, they use the same gas strut and bolt that in my opinion has a very narrow gage. As you can see in the picture, the passenger side bolt is fine, the driver side is buckled. The side accident that happened on May 2025 was on the passenger side but the liftgate is fine; at any rate both sides should be deformed not just one if that were to be the case but it is not. Dealer and Hyundai attempting to sideline the issue to avoid a warranty and recall in my opinion. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)
I have a 2025 Hyundai Kona Limited. On [XXX], around the afternoon on Sunnyvale, California, while exiting [XXX] headed to Lake Tahoe, the liftgate bolt that attaches to the body had buckled mechanically as the system did not back away when a flashlight that came out of a travel bag was blocking the way to have it closed. The car computer thinks the liftgate is open even though the lock is secured. The car computer allows to drive without seatbelts secured or closures ajar for a few seconds at low speed but then it automatically with little warning engages the electronic handbrake while driving. I was driving on a highway in a middle lane when the car engaged without my consent the electronic handbrake locking the wheels and I almost got rear ended and killed by a semitruck. I had to floor the gas pedal and steer to a shoulder to request a tow. Since it was a long weekend before Presidents Day, I had the car taken to the nearest dealer in Modesto California. Their service department invented a lie that due to a side crash, which was a failure of the collision mitigation system that happened months ago, is the cause and that it is my fault even though the driver admitted responsibility but it is an unrelated issue. There should be a way of overriding the car computer so it does not engage the electronic hand brake on the middle of the highway, specially at night as this creates a road hazard that can lead to death. I replicate the issue with a rental, a Hyundai Tucson, they use the same gas strut and bolt that in my opinion has a very narrow gage. As you can see in the picture, the passenger side bolt is fine, the driver side is buckled. The side accident that happened on May 2025 was on the passenger side but the liftgate is fine; at any rate both sides should be deformed not just one if that were to be the case but it is not. Dealer and Hyundai attempting to sideline the issue to avoid a warranty and recall in my opinion. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)
A week after I got my 2025 Hyundai Kona Limited, while trying to have the moonroof when headed into the highway since it gets too noisy if left open, the glass will touch the guard and then back away and remain fully open. However, the issue becomes more serious when it starts to rain or snow as it will remain open. In three occasions, the moonroof will not close. During a downpour, I had to use a large umbrella to avoid water to flood the car. Had I not had an umbrella or something to prevent water from getting in, the vehicle electronics could have become damaged including my personal belongings including but not limited to my sensitive medical equipment. Had I been in a snow shower, I will have gotten sick with a cold. I had reported the issue several times to different dealers and they only say it needs to be cleaned and reset. I had a Sonata with the same moonroof for over three years and I never experienced such an issue.
A week after I got my 2025 Hyundai Kona Limited, while trying to have the moonroof when headed into the highway since it gets too noisy if left open, the glass will touch the guard and then back away and remain fully open. However, the issue becomes more serious when it starts to rain or snow as it will remain open. In three occasions, the moonroof will not close. During a downpour, I had to use a large umbrella to avoid water to flood the car. Had I not had an umbrella or something to prevent water from getting in, the vehicle electronics could have become damaged including my personal belongings including but not limited to my sensitive medical equipment. Had I been in a snow shower, I will have gotten sick with a cold. I had reported the issue several times to different dealers and they only say it needs to be cleaned and reset. I had a Sonata with the same moonroof for over three years and I never experienced such an issue.
The plastic covers such as the wheel wells, inner fender linings, under body shield, are very prone to coming off by either minor objects intruding them or hitting them such as branches, rocks, or even water and sand. While driving on a highway at the Upper Peninsula in Michigan on October, a large branch on the road got inside the front wheel well and it took it away. It flew into the highway as debris and cars began evading them. I had to replace it at my expense and it come off again while driving on sand on a beach in St. Augustine Florida on December (the car is 4x4 off-road capable and sold as such). The underbody shield began coming off in a highway in near Austin Texas around a construction zone where loose gravel was present. Almost all plastic clips were missing after I was informed by a driver that plastic parts were coming off my car striking his vehicle. The wheel well of the driver side also began to come off. I had to zip-tie it; no holes were damaged but it was fully scratch and cracked in multiple locations from touching the pavement. I was hit on the side of the rear of the passenger side door and the plastic cover came off. I replaced it but it seems those plastic parts are superimposed and not well secured into the body of the car and can come off fairly easily during driving becoming road hazards that can result in a crash to vehicles driving from behind or even people or animals. I had a Sonata and the same under shield came off while driving to Miami on December 2024, their service department only had it cut leaving the underbody exposed.
The plastic covers such as the wheel wells, inner fender linings, under body shield, are very prone to coming off by either minor objects intruding them or hitting them such as branches, rocks, or even water and sand. While driving on a highway at the Upper Peninsula in Michigan on October, a large branch on the road got inside the front wheel well and it took it away. It flew into the highway as debris and cars began evading them. I had to replace it at my expense and it come off again while driving on sand on a beach in St. Augustine Florida on December (the car is 4x4 off-road capable and sold as such). The underbody shield began coming off in a highway in near Austin Texas around a construction zone where loose gravel was present. Almost all plastic clips were missing after I was informed by a driver that plastic parts were coming off my car striking his vehicle. The wheel well of the driver side also began to come off. I had to zip-tie it; no holes were damaged but it was fully scratch and cracked in multiple locations from touching the pavement. I was hit on the side of the rear of the passenger side door and the plastic cover came off. I replaced it but it seems those plastic parts are superimposed and not well secured into the body of the car and can come off fairly easily during driving becoming road hazards that can result in a crash to vehicles driving from behind or even people or animals. I had a Sonata and the same under shield came off while driving to Miami on December 2024, their service department only had it cut leaving the underbody exposed.
The contact owns a 2025 Hyundai Kona. The contact stated that while upon starting the vehicle, the vehicle failed to respond as intended, and the vehicle needed to be jump-started. The vehicle was taken to a dealer to be diagnosed; however, the diagnostic result was unknown. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure had occurred on several occasions. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and informed the contact that the vehicle did not fall under the Lemon Law. The failure mileage was 12,000.
The contact owns a 2025 Hyundai Kona. The contact stated that while upon starting the vehicle, the vehicle failed to respond as intended, and the vehicle needed to be jump-started. The vehicle was taken to a dealer to be diagnosed; however, the diagnostic result was unknown. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure had occurred on several occasions. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and informed the contact that the vehicle did not fall under the Lemon Law. The failure mileage was 12,000.
The contact owns a 2025 Hyundai Kona. The contact stated that upon entering the vehicle, the front driver's side seat independently ejected the contact forward into the steering wheel. No warning lights were illuminated. The vehicle was taken to a local dealer; however, the failure was unidentified. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact sustained injuries to her back; however, no medical attention was sought. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 385.
The contact owns a 2025 Hyundai Kona. The contact stated that upon entering the vehicle, the front driver's side seat independently ejected the contact forward into the steering wheel. No warning lights were illuminated. The vehicle was taken to a local dealer; however, the failure was unidentified. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact sustained injuries to her back; however, no medical attention was sought. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 385.
The contact rented a 2025 Hyundai Kona. The contact stated while driving 70 MPH, the driver's side front door independently unlatched and opened. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired by an independent mechanic or the dealer. The Enterprise Car Rental Agency was made aware of the failure. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 14,000.
The contact rented a 2025 Hyundai Kona. The contact stated while driving 70 MPH, the driver's side front door independently unlatched and opened. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired by an independent mechanic or the dealer. The Enterprise Car Rental Agency was made aware of the failure. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 14,000.
The contact owns a 2025 Hyundai Kona. The contact stated while driving 38 MPH, the exterior lights, taillights, daytime running lights, and interior lights became inoperable for two and a half seconds. The seat belt light flashed. Additionally, the seat heater and steering buttons were switched off and then reset. The vehicle was taken to the local dealer, who was unable to duplicate the failure. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not contacted. The failure mileage was approximately 2,060.
The contact owns a 2025 Hyundai Kona. The contact stated while driving 38 MPH, the exterior lights, taillights, daytime running lights, and interior lights became inoperable for two and a half seconds. The seat belt light flashed. Additionally, the seat heater and steering buttons were switched off and then reset. The vehicle was taken to the local dealer, who was unable to duplicate the failure. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not contacted. The failure mileage was approximately 2,060.
What Owners Are Saying
"Hyundai Kona 2025 - Is it a comfortable car for a driver with hip pain? Hi :) If you drive a Hyundai Kona 2025 model do you find it’s comfortable, especially for your right leg and hips/back in general? I have gluteal tendinopathy in my right leg and currently cant drive my Mazda 3 for more than 10 minutes because of the hard, low set, angled seats. We took a 2025 Kona for a test drive today and it seemed good (fully adjustable electric seats) but I’d be interested to hear from any Kona owners who also have leg and hip pain if it’s a good car or not. Thank you :) UPDATE - Took the Kona Premium for a 90 minute test drive this week and it seemed fine. I found the most comfortable seat position was to get the seat as high as possible and then angle the front (beneath my knees) down so that my knees were lower than my hips. Using the auto hold on the break was also handy to avoid having my right foot at an angle on the break while at traffic lights. And by using the adaptive cruise control I was also able to stretch my right leg out and give it a break. Only experienced some mild hip pain while driving and felt absolutely fine the next day."
"2024 Essential (Canadian model) software update. software update.") Since I got my 2024 Kona Essential we have had trouble getting wireless Android auto to connect. After installing the software update, It finally connects every time I get in the Kona. If Hyundai Canada was pushing OTA updates to our cars, the problem would have been solved much sooner. Our Kona... 21.4Ksaliturid replied May 22, 2025 Engine and Technical Discussion brian\_tay50 Mar 24, 2025 Software issue?? Can't turn off speed limit warning beep. Told by dealer it's new software update. My Kona is just weeks old. Anyone with same issues?"
"DaveRus Apr 6, 2026 Software Version: 26.3.1 OTA Update (Canada)") My 2024 Hyundai Kona just did it's first ever OTA update. I was prompted when I parked my car that it was available and it was able to update successfully. This is the first time my car has been able to perform an OTA update, as I have had to manually update my car through its USB port with a... 12317TJ Moritz replied 7d ago Hyundai Kona Forum - the best place to talk about the new Hyundai Kona, the new city SUV and its upcoming Kia twin!"
"Thinking of getting a Hyundai Kona 2025-2026? Hi, so currently I have a chevy trax 2024, I got the new look and model back then and god nobody told me that you are not supposed to get a car when they recently changed all the features because they come with all sorts of problems, its been 3 years and my warranty just expired, so im worried that it might get other problems on the long run and I just had a bad experience with chevy. i have seen this car on the street the Hyundai Kona 2025 and my god I fell in love, it looks very similar to the trax and it even has the same features, so I was thinking about buying that one or getting a lease I still dont know. now on the internet theres some mixed reviews, some people say theyre great, some other say they have presented problems with sensors, noises or even motor problems, and that it all depends on the year you get. so I wanted to ask anyone who has this car what do they think? how does it run? have you presented any problems at all, is the dealership good when it comes to getting things fix, warranty and stuff? please let me know, thank uuuuuuuuuuuu"
"Help! US Hyundai Kona N Line 2024, CarPlay Broken, Can’t Update, No Dealer Support Abroad Hi everyone, I’m at a loss and really need advice from anyone who’s dealt with U.S.-spec Hyundais abroad or ccNC head unit issues. **The Problem:** * I imported a 2024 Hyundai Kona N Line from the U.S. to Iraq. * Apple CarPlay does **not work** on my current infotainment software (ccNC head unit, SW: SX2.USA.ccNC.001.001.230901). * When I try to update the head unit with an official Hyundai Navigation Updater USB (from the U.S. update site), the car INSTANTLY shows:*“Please check the device containing the update files and try again.”* * The car never scans the USB at all – it just rejects it immediately. **What I’ve Tried:** * **Contacted Hyundai USA (Bluelink, Mapnsoft/Navigation, and Consumer Affairs):** * They told me they don’t support cars located outside the USA/Canada. * They also told me all U.S. head unit updates are unavailable globally until mid/late October due to a “temporary server issue.” (Email attached below.) * **Contacted Hyundai Middle East/Bluelink MEA:** * They stated that they only officially support Bluelink for cars sold and registered in the Middle East. * Explicitly refused to help with Apple CarPlay or software updates for U.S. imports (screenshot below). * **Visited local authorized dealer in Baghdad (Al-Oula Motors):** * Dealer refused to even look at the car as soon as they learned it was a U.S. import. * I clarified to all of them that I **don’t need navigation or maps**, just an infotainment system update so CarPlay will work. * **Tried all USB formatting tricks** (FAT32, NTFS, different brands, sizes, both SSD and regular stick). * **Advanced firmware hack methods aren’t even possible**: since U.S. update files are now blocked/unavailable until October, I can’t download the latest .swu files to try bootloader workarounds. **Emails and Responses:** * Hyundai USA: “We don’t support updates or troubleshooting outside North America. Updates globally are down until October.” * Hyundai MEA: “We do not support U.S.-spec vehicles. Bluelink and CarPlay support is not available for imports.” * Local Dealer: “No support for U.S. vehicles.” **So Now I’m Stuck:** * CarPlay is dead. * Can’t update firmware/infotainment. * No local, regional, or official U.S. support. * Even DIY update tricks are blocked by Hyundai’s current update blackout for U.S. vehicles. **Has ANYONE found a workaround or third-party solution for this?** * Is there a way to “unlock” USB update mode on the ccNC unit? * Will a U.S.-spec head unit *ever* be updateable abroad, or am I just out of luck? * Any alternative to at **least restore basic CarPlay**, even if I lose navigation? **Any help or experience would be really appreciated.** I’ll post screenshots of the emails and error messages if needed. Thanks in advance!"
"So I tried to check directly with Hyundai if this implies a fault, or is this merely the system's way of saying that no update is available. Hyundai's response is to say I need to ask my local garage. I asked the garage I bought it from and they said they would need the car for a day to answer the question. I also spoke to another local Hyundai garage that Hyundai put me in touch with, but they also said that they would need the car for a day but they could not look at it until mid October. I feel frustrated and somewhat irritated. If there is a fault on my new car I would like it fixed but first I just want to know if there is a problem and am surprised that no one seems able to tell me what should happen when I press the "Update" button. 1- Is my car able to update its software OTA, or was I misled? And if it should be possible, then... 2- Does the message I get indicate that no update is currently available, or that there is a fault? I would really rather not have to wait a month and a half, and lose my car for a day to find out. dbrewood"
"If your Bluelink app isn’t working Calling Hyundai will get you directed to to reset the head unit. If it doesn’t worn for you you’ll need to do a reset within software options in settings. This factory resets everything though. Update: My 2024 Hyundai Kona SEL was affected by the February 9, 2025, Bluelink outage, and it still isn’t working. I’ve tried everything: Uninstalled and reinstalled the app Reset the head unit via the pinhole method Held the map and setup buttons for 30 seconds to reset Tried resetting through the head unit’s settings Both software reset attempts failed, showing the error: "Unlink failed." At this point, I have no idea when this will be fixed. I rely on Bluelink for security, emergency services, and tracking if my car gets stolen. None of this is acceptable. Is anyone else still dealing with this, or has anyone found a fix?"
"Post by **OldMike** » Thu Aug 29, 2024 8:47 pm Believing that Hyundai was a well respected and trusted car manufacturer, I bought my first Hyundai at the begining of the year, an all electric Kona Ultimate. Since then I have been surprised how hard it seems to be to get answers from Hyundai on various issues. It appears that Hyundai expect all questions to be put to the local dealer, who often does not seem to be able to respond, effectively saying that they are not able to get an answer from Hyundai. My latest issue relates to software updates, which I was led to believe could be done over the air (OTA) on my car thus ensuring that the software would remain up to date and not need the car to go into the garage. The infotainment system seems to confirm that by offering switches to turn off the OTA facility (I have not activated these switches). My car says the last update was done in April. A recent post I read in this forum implied that a new update might be available so I selected the relevant page on the infotainment system and pressed "Update"...... The response was "Please check the storage device and try again." I had expected it to either update OTA or say that no update was available."
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